Active Linn Katans

Gavin,

My Katans are standing on a shelf (I know this is NOT a good thing but that part is out of my control), so I have them quite close to the wall, 15 cm:s. Since the space for repositioning is very limitied I think getting the Kolektor will allow me to adjust the tone to better fit my listening room (which is very bright).

The Majik lacks these tone controls so this is yet untested.

What has happened though is I received a response from Linn Helpline where they told me that I had made an error with the connections. I had daisychained the Majik through the first LK-85, which was a big error. The Majik automatically senses the active cards and reroutes the signal to the poweramp, even though the external links are removed. I was feeding the poweramp with two signals.. both the bass from the internal active cards AND the daisy chained signal (which is the original source signal). No wonder thing were mixed up!!

The Katans are singing more and more for every day. I still have some minor repositioning to do, and am waiting for the Kolektor with big expectiations.

I think the Sizmik is a perfect match for the Katans. I have listened to the Katans with a CD12, a 5103 and a 2250, combined with a Sizmik. The sound was (for me) pure magic. In my opinion the Katans are underestimated, they just need a very good source because they are very demanding. My Genki is looking weaker for every day...

Christian and Gavin,

I understand that speaker positioning is sometimes dictated by factors beyond our control. You both need to experiment with methods to overcome the negatives of having the speakers too close to the wall. Tone controls, although perhaps needed in THIS case, are rarely beneficial. You need to place absorption panels behind your speakers. I realize that you will probably be limited in the size of the panels but urge you to do as much as you can. You need to minimize the coupling effect and your bass will improve a great deal. If my memory serves me correctly this early in the morning Westlake offers an accessory that looks like a foam surround that is flush with the face of the speaker. Take a look and try some home brewed remedy that is similar. I do think that "if" you can place Sonex (or similar) panels on the wall behind the speakers the results will make you happy.

The Sonex comes in 2 x 2 foot panels. For description sake, let's assume the speakers are the same size. You would need 9 panels per speaker making the absorption area 6 x 6 feet with each speaker directly in the middle. There are less expensive home brewed designs that are searchable on net.

Ideally you both need really good speaker stands a couple of feet into the room, minimum. The panels would mimic this to a certain degree.

Good luck,
Patrick

Hi,

Christian: Don't the Aktiv treble cards have an adjustment dail? I have read that it is accessible through the back of the amp. Maybe that would help the brightness?

Partrick: Yes, about positioning...not only the bass response, but also the soundstage. It really seems to take some depth away. I can't tell you how much this bothered me (I had the speakers on makeshift stands when I first got them, and things got smaller when they were wall mounted, as far as depth). It still does bother me...but it is a real battle between reality and ultimate performance.

I am going to investigate absorption panels, thanks for the idea. Anything that would help, while within my constraints, would be nice!

Gavin.

Guys,

My Aktiv cards (treble) have eight DIP switches for "room correction". Each switch is worth 0.5 db. I'm working from memory here but I believe four of the switches in the "on" position is the factory preset. So, assuming that is flat response, then you can boost or reduce the highs by a total of 2 db + or -. I hope this helps. Also, there was a post recently about anyone subscribing to the DELE or LEDE room treatments. Do a search of the Audiogon archives. I have a description there of a great room with Linn speakers tight against the wall. This Dead End/Live End application, while not preferred, will be your best bet, IMHO.

If you are willing to invest some money, in the neighborhood of $100-200, to build great absorptive panels then email me directly for a description. I do advise doing something makeshift in advance of the investment. Even cutting a piece of 2" thick foam rubber and temporarily placing it behind your speakers will let you tell if this is the way to go. Be warned however, that I wouldn't use this material permanently because of the fire hazard. Ultimately you need to use rigid fiberglass inside a frame of some sort with a fabric (burlap is best) covering. If you can find a material like the sock fabric the Linn speakers use this would be a very good alternative. It can be very attractive if you are a little handy and willing to give DIY a try.

Patrick, thanks for the suggestion about absorption panels. That just might do the trick.

I agree with you that using tone controls normaly won't be beneficial, and the reason for getting the Kolektor is not because of the tonecontrols, but for the sake of a better preamp. Despite that I am still interested in doing a comparison with the Kolektor with the bass increased with 1-2 knotches.

Actually sometimes I find it interesting to go back to a not so good system to find why I keep on defending the amount of time, effort and money put into your own. This friday I had a listen to a system with a X-Box as source, a Denon multichannel-amp and a pair of huge Dali speakers. The speakers were more expensive than my Katans (according to the owner). And there was a subwoofer hidden away too. The music was just not there, no matter what I listened to.
So tunewise it was awful. But the other interesting part was that compared to my setup there was about the same amount of bass, so I'm getting more and more sure that my tonal balance isn't that much off.

Gavin, it is true that the treble cards have a dial to setup the active cards. The bass, of course, not having one. The dial has the same function as Patricks dip-switches have, the only difference is that you can reach the dial without opening the amp:s case.

Best regards,
Christian