I like the Aesthetix both ways. Single ended has a bit more "magic," sort of a SET kind of sound. The balanced is more dynamic and streamlined and slightly better noise and control.
Since my Soundlabs are already fairly musical and lack the punch of dynamic woofers, I am currently running Purist Audio's cable for the Japan market in balanced mode.
I still occasionally recall the magic of Allison Krauss when I was all single ended Dominus. It was not as wide band or as dynamic but the soul of the music would put chills all over your body. Especially if your attracted to Alison's voice and fragile beauty as much as I am.
My most recent upgrade was rewiring my Walker turntable, using XLR connectors obtained from Jim White at Aesthetix. Although this is not balanced in the true sense, the Aesthetix connectors are superb and combined with the new Ferox Purist Audio cables, it is an incredible combo.
The transfer of my .25 MV Koetsu output to Io actually went up in volume approximately 1.5 DB. This is an indication of the ability of this new wire to transfer very delicate and low intensity signal over a 1.52 meter run.
One last thing. The review you mention was performed with all stock Russian tubes, so the added "beauty" of single ended was almost a requirement to add a bit of musicality to the system they used. Balanced with proper NOS tubes is more musical than single ended with Russian tubes and the benefits of balanced remain.
Of course you could go with NOS and stay single ended with Dominus and have 24 hour goose bumps. In other words, everything is relative to the gear and situation and what the listener prefers.