Aftermarket fuse to tame a bright system?

OP…I think by now it’s clear that fuses will not solve your bright system issues.

I also don’t think that breaking these cables in will completely eliminate this brightness.

Few things to resolve this -

1. All silver cables not a great idea. Try pure copper speaker cables first then go up the audio chain to replace the interconnects feeding the amp first. 
2. Room acoustics. Thick rug, treating first reflections if possible 

Address the items in the signal path first if room acoustics is not feasible to tackle. 
 

@bolong interested in your comments about Anticables gold/silver alloy - what other interconnect have you tried.  Anticables look good, but no shielding?!?

I am now on day four of the Audio Magic Masterpiece M2 Fuse. I don't have a streamer - just a one disc at a time CD transport - so I have been unable to give it a 3 weeks of constant playing style burn-in, but this fuse has been enlightening. A most obvious change has been that files can be played louder now without distortion, and files can be played at lower volume than before with less loss of information. There is a somewhat wider soundstage as well with better instrument separation - cliches I know but crucial still. Perhaps the most noticeable change is that all aspects of the system have become more shall we say noticeable. The Rel S812 subs are now much more sensitive and responsive to minute adjustments of the crossover and gain settings. I also have come to realize that what I was previously perceiving as treble hotness was just distortion - not an earthshaking idea at all, but hearing is believing. The cleaning up of mumbled diction as mentioned in an earlier post still hasn't worn off on the amazement scale either,

I would love to see how the fairy paste is compounded. I wonder too if this paste could be deployed on a power cable.

Gavin1977

Anti-Cables make great products, I'd give Paul Speltz (founder and highly thought of) a call to discuss your issues and see what he recommends

Cables can take hundreds of hours to break in, I'd wait for 250 hours or so before making a final decision

Fuses - I'm using rather inexpensive fuses, ACME Audio Ceramic silver cryo fuses. The black fuses with CFC coating actually were an improvement, especially for their inexpensive $32 cost. Worth a try especially at that cost.

Funny that they seemed to increase inner detail, but also smoothed out the highs.....and reduced sibilance or brightness. Like I said, cheap to test....but they do take about 100 hours to soften up