Looks like you have your pathway forward:
RUN ...DONT WALK back to BEST BUY and dump the AVR and get your refund pronto.
if it’s an intermittent faulty HDMI handshake issue, the likely inevitable motherboard replacement will be a major job without assurance that it won’t happen again . Your unit is already a discontinued item and future repairs will be hard at a minimum and likely impossible in the near future ...ergo ... it’s a pending boat anchor.
Scope out the tsunami of failing AVR dodgy HDMI and dodgy power supplies failure Complaint Posts ( all AVRs with ONKYO leading the list ..) on AGON and CANUCKAUDIOMART . In brief, it’s not a question of “if” but rather “when” they fail. The repeated theme is if you are committed to an AVR, stick to the cheapest models as a hedge against the inevitable.
To imhififan’s comments : it is a VERY valid point without prejudice to the comments above. An AVR ...ANY AVR ... are a poor source for your new B+W speakers. The AVR is running hot with an inadequate power supply to drive the channels . That excess heat is the fatal catalyst that accelerates the dodgy motherboard HDMI input / output intermittent and ultimate total MB failures .
Consider a superior long-term solution instead of a short-term wish and hope fix with dodgy AVRs. ( it’s what I did because I lived the same repeating AVR HDMI board FUHBARs and overheating inferior power supplies jammed into the AVRs)
(a) consider a high-end 2-channel integrated amplifier with a direct pass-through to drive the LF and RF B+Ws (... a WHOLE STEP-UP in audio performance over the AVR for all 2-channel audio ...) and
(b) fill out the rest of a HT system with :
(1) a pre-owned quality build standalone 5-channel power amp to drive the other speakers, and,
(2) a pre-owned (or new ... depending on budget ) quality build stand alone 7.1 AV preamp/ processor . ( it becomes the inevitable “disposable” as the CODECS change) but you keep the power amp and integrated amp over the long run without the FUHBARs.
good luck sir.
RUN ...DONT WALK back to BEST BUY and dump the AVR and get your refund pronto.
if it’s an intermittent faulty HDMI handshake issue, the likely inevitable motherboard replacement will be a major job without assurance that it won’t happen again . Your unit is already a discontinued item and future repairs will be hard at a minimum and likely impossible in the near future ...ergo ... it’s a pending boat anchor.
Scope out the tsunami of failing AVR dodgy HDMI and dodgy power supplies failure Complaint Posts ( all AVRs with ONKYO leading the list ..) on AGON and CANUCKAUDIOMART . In brief, it’s not a question of “if” but rather “when” they fail. The repeated theme is if you are committed to an AVR, stick to the cheapest models as a hedge against the inevitable.
To imhififan’s comments : it is a VERY valid point without prejudice to the comments above. An AVR ...ANY AVR ... are a poor source for your new B+W speakers. The AVR is running hot with an inadequate power supply to drive the channels . That excess heat is the fatal catalyst that accelerates the dodgy motherboard HDMI input / output intermittent and ultimate total MB failures .
Consider a superior long-term solution instead of a short-term wish and hope fix with dodgy AVRs. ( it’s what I did because I lived the same repeating AVR HDMI board FUHBARs and overheating inferior power supplies jammed into the AVRs)
(a) consider a high-end 2-channel integrated amplifier with a direct pass-through to drive the LF and RF B+Ws (... a WHOLE STEP-UP in audio performance over the AVR for all 2-channel audio ...) and
(b) fill out the rest of a HT system with :
(1) a pre-owned quality build standalone 5-channel power amp to drive the other speakers, and,
(2) a pre-owned (or new ... depending on budget ) quality build stand alone 7.1 AV preamp/ processor . ( it becomes the inevitable “disposable” as the CODECS change) but you keep the power amp and integrated amp over the long run without the FUHBARs.
good luck sir.