Beginner looking for guidance into tube sound.


Hello all, I am looking for some input on the best way to add tubes to my current mess. I currently have what I am sure everyone here would consider barely a step up from my parents zenith HI-FI circa 1977. please keep in mind I am lucky if I can afford to look in the window of an actual audio store. 
I currently have a Peachtree nova 300 and a Marantz CD player and a pair of monitor audio silver 500 speakers. A friend gave me a blue sound node 2i also. I have always wanted a tube powered amp. I see these Chinese amps like the Muzishare X7 and Willsenton R8 that have lots of great reviews. Or maybe a tube DAC. Then I see the Black Ice for ss-x. Each having less tubes respectively. Not sure how much that matters but I would think the more tubes the more tube sound one could expect. I would like to be in the $1000. range but would go to $1500 if I had to. My goal is to find the best most cost effective way to enter the tube world.  
johnfritter
Any vintage equipment like the Dyna stuff should have their power supplies rebuilt. The original filter caps in most of the tube stuff is all bad now- and if you run equipment like that without servicing it out you run the risk of destroying the power transformer.

A lot of that 'classic' sound is actually bad filter caps and other aging parts.
Atmasphere,

Obviously. Please: I provided a link to a rebuilt one. 

You make wonderful amps but clearly this person is starting out and can’t afford them, not my Julius Futterman OTL3s. 

I began by building my own Dyna 70 when I was 14 years old and it kept me quite happy from 1968 through 1980, when I moved up to the Dyna MK3s. Those were not particularly stable, I got the Futtermans in 1985, they were modified from pentode to triode in 2015 and I am still using them.


Question: do you consider the NYAL Futterman OTL3 “classic” even if it’s been completely rebuilt with Jensen audio grade foil caps?

You make wonderful amps but clearly this person is starting out and can’t afford them, not my Julius Futterman OTL3s.

I began by building my own Dyna 70 when I was 14 years old and it kept me quite happy from 1968 through 1980, when I moved up to the Dyna MK3s. Those were not particularly stable, I got the Futtermans in 1985, they were modified from pentode to triode in 2015 and I am still using them.


Question: do you consider the NYAL Futterman OTL3 “classic” even if it’s been completely rebuilt with Jensen audio grade foil caps?
@unreceivedogma I'm a fan of the ST-70 and have rebuilt many of them. I was only offering the advice since the ST70 is a good entry point into high end audio if its refurbished.


I regard the Futterman amps as classics but not the NYAL stuff.


Atmasphere,

Well, my cell phone finally is not correcting atmasphere.

NYAL is based on the same design (that I have listened to and am familiar with), and many knew and worked with Mr Futterman. There is a direct lineage.

Yes, it’s been stated that the NYALs were unstable. This is a controversial point as you must know. My experience has been that if you attach them to the wrong load, you are begging for trouble. I learned this the hard way, when I tried to drive a pair of Warfdales. It was not a pretty sight.

My pair have been cared for, first by Da-Hong Seetoo https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Da-Hong_Seetoo, then by George Kaye (Moscode, and a NYAL alumni), and then by Jon Specter (also a NYAL alumni, a highly regarded blues guitarist session man and cousin of Al Kooper).

Jon took the amps and rebuilt them from the ground up with audiophile parts and converted them to triode. There are only two other pairs like these.

I’m certain that my amps hold their own to anything out there. They are breathtakingly transparent.

And Jon corrected for the weaknesses in the design of these types of amps: there is now a much better bottom. I haven’t heard your amps, I know they enjoy a terrific reputation, but my copy of Canto General sounds weak on the bottom, and so I wonder if your design suffers similarly. Granted, I’m driving Altecs, known for brightness at 2K and rolling off below 100 or so.

https://www.theaudioatticvinylsundays.com