Best DIY power cable. Why not make?

dill"Do not use spades in power cables."

There is no logic, reason, or justifictation for not using spades on power cables and in fact use of such terminations can insure a proper connection, contact, and conduction.

@toddrhodes - the spades I use are nothing special - just plated copper

You can get them from Radio Shack (or similar stores) - I also get them from stores that sell car parts - 10-12 gauge should do nicely.

Try this place
https://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&u...

The spades above do not degrade the performance of the cable as long as good wire and good connectors are used - their electrical path is far too small to make a significant difference

The IEC Connectors and Plugs I use have a curved clamp - once they are tightened around the spade there is little possibility thay will come apart
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/SONAR-QUEST-CRYO-Ag-Audio-Grade-Silver-plated-IEC-plug-US-main-plug-sonarque...

I am not saying the Sonar Quest are better than the Furutech or Oyaide connectors, but they are very good and cost much less. They have a thick coating of very pure silver so they will not tarnish quickly or wear through to the solid copper pins under normal use.

I have been developing power cables for a few years and started with Furutech and DH labs bulk cable, but quickly found using a better cable geometry outperforms them by a significant margin.

I have tried bare wire joints, soldered wire, crimped spades and crimped + soldered spades and found the last of those methods provided the best performance. Others may have found differently.

I would invest in good crimping pliers - like those on my web site below - they make a huge difference to the finished joint and require less solder

I like eutectic solder or 4% WBT solder. BUT - do not use just any old solder because it will degrade the sound.

Here is a link to the Helix Power Cable that I use
http://image99.net/blog/files/category-002ahelix-power-cable.html

At first glance it may appear complex, but it is actually quite simple if you follow the technique in the link and it will provide performance that few other cables can compete with. Once person that tried them promptly replaced all of his Nordost cables

I can also highly recommend the speaker and interconnect cables on my site - I have compared them to TOTL Cardas cables and the Helix sounded more complete with a huge sound stage.

If you have any other questions just ask away

Good luck with your DIY - it’s worth the effort :-)

Regards - Steve

There is no logic, reason, or justifictation for not using spades on power cables and in fact use of such terminations can insure a proper connection, contact, and conduction.

Just any old spade connector work? Obviously correct for the gauge of wire I'm using, but since I'm using high quality wire and connectors, I don't necessarily want to throw $.01 spade connectors inside :) 

@williewonka 

Thank you! I visited your site last night but didn't see the Helix instructions, which answered all of my questions. Disregard my last question, you already answered it.

So I think I'm going to make the cable with the items I have onhand, as a good practice run. May not even plug it into any audio equipment at first, but since it's my first cable, choose a sacrificial lamb with an IEC connector instead :) If it runs fine for a bit, I'll move on to trying the helix as I build a parts list of the things you mentioned. I have a good set of Klein crimps from my time in audio, and I use Cardas quad-eutectic solder so I think that will be ok? Also recently got a nice soldering station so that will get some use as well.

 Mainly I just need to procure some of the Sonar Quest connectors (for the price, I don't feel I need to look further, honestly), and the TFA wire, based on the equipment I need to cable.

Thank you again, and congrats on all your hard work!
Todd

Todd - the Cardas solder is as good as any I mentioned - it will perform well.

BTW: I have been using eutectic solder for the past few months and now prefer it to the silver solder because it hardens quicker, which I think makes for a better joint. The sound has not suffered at all, so it seems to work very well

Like you, I started with bulk cable. Once I tried the Helix geometry I simply "re-purposed" the wires from my Furutech and DH Labs cables as the Live conductors in my Helix Cables - and they worked extremely well  
But it did seem almost "criminal" to cut away all that insulation AND the  braided screen from the Furutech bulk cable.

FYI - the helix neutral and ground wires do provide a very effective screen for the live wire, protecting it from EMI/RFI and limiting the EMI/RFI from the live wire also.

So when you decide to make  Helix cable - re-use the wires inside the bulk cable you purchased

Good luck with your cables - Steve