Building a Power Strip, any advise?

Ozzy - just saw your power strips - looks great

Where did you get that case?

Some things I did with mine (if you are interested)

- I have a 15 amp pushbutton breaker for protection of the unit/devices - good fuses get expensive and may still impact sound

- I used crimped spade connectors for connection to the breaker - I don't like solder joints for power

- I used Furutech mains conductors for the internal wiring

- I wired all outlets in a star configuration to prevent cross-outlet contamination - not in parallel as you have. For this I used a termination block to accomodate all the wires.

- I also added a couple of switches to control 2 of the three outlet/pairs.

My initial cut at this was without switches and breaker, but after signficant testing I found neither the breaker or switches detracted from the sound.

The switches are good quality 20 amp SPST and the breaker is a quality 15 amp thermal model

Better quality magnetic/thermal are available for aroud $40, which may prove to be better, but since I did not nitice any sonic degredation I stopped there :-)

My power distribution box only powers source components - the amp goes into the wall outlet

My outlets are Pass and Seymour MRI grade 15 amp outlets ($25). The MRI rating means they have no ferous materials in their construction.

I found these to be superior the regular 20 amp hospital grade outlets I have tried in the past and they clamp even better - more like a vice, which eliminates the need for additional support of heavy cables. I also have these at the wall outlet.

Regards...

Williewonka, I bought the cases from China, I think the site is posted early on in this thread, if not I can provide it.

"I wired all outlets in a star configuration to prevent cross-outlet contamination - not in parallel as you have. For this I used a termination block to accomodate all the wires."
I'm interested, but not quite sure how I could fit that configuration into my Case. Can you send me an email with a picture to show how you did it?

I have never tried the Pass and Seymour you mentioned, but others also have posted that they like them.

So far, I have tried Synergistic SE, Maestro, Audience and Oyaide R1 outlets.
In my opinion, the Oyaide R1's are the best and they have the grip of death on a plug.

Ozzy - I've placed a diagram on my System page...
http://cgim.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/vs.pl?vdone&1323121575&viewitem&o20

Then Page-down to the bottom

I use that type of terminal block because you can really tighten down on the wire.

Since I used stranded wire, I also used crimp spades to connect to the block and the outlets

I started with Romex, but then changed to Furutech mains cable conductors.

How much were the Oyaide outlets where you are?

Would be interesting to try one, but I'm too tight :-)

I do believe that the best power outlets/cables/etc.. make all the difference, even to the most modestly priced components, but some of this stuff is outrageously priced - Oh Well - the next life :-)

Williewonka , Thanks for the diagram.

I used a Furetech IEC inlet which uses screw down connections. The wire that I used was 12 gauge military spec silver coated cyoed copper teflon insulated .
I bought 2 Oyaide R1's from a online Dealer. I also bought a few of the Oyaide's from a seller on Ebay or Audiogon (I can't remember exactly) who was selling both Oyaides and Maestro outlets.
The Oyaides retail for about $150 each,and they are tough too find much cheaper than that, but I managed to pay less than half.
It's worth it to try to find one for your set up and determine what you think.

I have not yet found an outlet that is totally non ferrous even 2 that claim to have zero ferrous materials. Certainly easy to swap out ferrous fasteners to brass but some parts are not easily reached nor should they be when they cost 1 to 2 hundred each and make printed claims as to their contents. Even stainless steel is magnetic when approached by an N52 magnet. I will keep looking. Tom