Building stands for Harbeth 40.2's

Funny you should mention. I am in the process of making stands for Harbeth P3ESR XDs. The base of the stand should have 4 adjustable spikes to engage the floor. I am turning a single spindle with a unique shape averaging 6" in diameter. It is hollow and will be filled with lead shot. The top plate is triangular with three 1" tall 1.5" diameter dowels at each corner. I will attach the speaker with 3M carpet tape. The stands are overall 36" tall. They are made out of Walnut matching the speakers. 

@grislybutter

" the TonTraegers look hideous"

Did the OP ask about looks? You sound like a real buttinsky with nothing to add to the question that the OP asked!

HARBETH owner experiences with open-frame design TonTrager speaker stands compared to the other options….link posted below.

I had a custom woodworker bespoke clone the TT’s at about 40%of their retail cost. Money well,spent.

The “open frame design” with decoupling extended tenons and Tonebeds are the best extension of the overall HARBETH speaker design. In contrast to many rigid, heavy and thick wall models, HARBETHs are a thin-wall cabinet design that permit the speakers to resonate like the sound board in a Strad violin or Steinway grand piano. Decoupling the speaker from the stand is key.
 

Flat plate stands are a compromise to their design and performance capabilities.

That’s a key fsctor in best highlighting their best-of-breed overall flat frequency response curve across the spectrum , facilitating their class-leading midrange, and presenting their bespoke “airy”:sonic signature .

choose wisely

 Here is a less expensive option!

the TonTraegers look hideous

Have you considered Sound Anchors stands?  I have seen them used fairly often with Harbeth speakers and they make stands dedicated specifically for the Harbeth Monitor 40 line.  The cost for their Signature Stands is a little less than the cost of the TonTraeger stands, and they may be a good trade-off compared to the time, materials, and skill required to achieve a suitable DIY result.  Just a thought.  Good luck getting exactly what you want.

resonant woods (ones i have), skylans and sound anchors are fine too

best for bbc heritage speakers to have an open frame design though, if you adhere to the purists...

TonTraeger stands

I have the 30.2XD’s

Resonance dissipation and decoupling:
Extended tenons -  top AND bottom - allow direct absorption of cabinet resonances and decouple the speaker from the ground.

the extended tenons on top of mine have routered out oval “dimples” in the extended tenons - “tone beds” are explained below ,,,, the tenons are not flat …It matters too,

https://www.tontraeger-audio.com/lang/en/produktdetails-stands.html

I know that the 40.2’s have the extended tenons too, and it appears that they also have the routered out “dimpled “ tone beds in their model extended tenons.

Extended Tenons

• The frames of the audio boards are joined with a mortise and tenon joint.
• The so-called "extended tenons" are evolved out of the wood connection to form the four contact points for the speaker.
• The upper tenons absorb cabinet resonances.
• The lower tenons serve to decouple external influences.
• The "extended tenons" replace the use of spikes.

ToneBed

• An oval hollow on top of the tenons ( routered out) reduces the contact surface to achieve maximum form fit.
• The ToneBeds prevent vibration bridges.

I would not chintz it …if it’s too much for you, then give it up , step down, and chooses a larger mass speaker stand & save the $$

I have the TonTrager stands for my Harbeth HL5. If you want to do a true clone the bottom should be open with no spikes! The one inch risers should be on the bottom the same as on the top!

I can't figure out how to attach a pic....