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Capacitor log Mundorf Silver in Oil

I wished I could find a log with information on caps. I have found many saying tremendous improvement etc. but not a detailed account of what the changes have been. I have had the same speakers for many years so am very familiar with them. (25+ years) The speakers are a set of Klipsch Lascala's. They have Alnico magnets in the mids and ceramic woofers and tweeters. The front end is Linn LP12 and Linn pre amp and amp. The speaker wire is 12 gauge and new wire.

I LOVE these speakers around 1 year ago they started to sound like garbage. As many have said they are VERY sensitive to the components before them. They are also showing what I think is the effect of worn out caps.

There are many out here on these boards I know of that are using the Klipsch (heritage) with cheaper Japanese electronics because the speakers are cheap! (for what they can do) One thing I would recommend is give these speakers the best quality musical sources you can afford. There is a LOT to get out of these speakers. My other speakers are Linn speakers at around 4k new with Linn tri-wire (I think about 1k for that) and the Klipsch DESTROY them in my mind. If you like "live feel" there is nothing like them. In fact it shocks me how little speakers have improved in 30 years (or 60 years in the Khorns instance)

In fact I question Linn's theory (that they have proved many times) that the source is the most important in the Hi-Fi chain. Linn's theory is top notch source with lessor rest of gear including speakers trumps expensive speakers with lessor source. I think is right if all things are equal but Klipsch heritage are NOT equal! They make a sound and feel that most either LOVE or hate. (I am in the LOVE camp and other speakers are boring to me)

So here goes and I hope this helps guys looking at caps in the future. Keep in mind Klipsch (heritage Khorns Belle's and Lascala's especially) are likely to show the effects of crossover changes more then most.

1 The caps are 30 years old and
2 the speakers being horn driven make changes 10x times more apparent.

Someone once told me find speakers and components you like THEN start to tweak if needed. Don't tweak something you not in love with. Makes sense to me.

So sound
Record is Let it Be (Beatles)
The voices are hard almost sounds like a worn out stylus.
Treble is very hard. I Me Mine has hard sounding guitars. Symbals sound awful. Everything has a digital vs. analog comparison x50! Paul's voice not as bad as John's and George's. Voices will crack.

different lp
Trumpets sound awful. Tambourine terrible. Bass is not great seems shy (compared to normal) but the bad caps draw soooooo much attention to the broken up mid range and hard highs that are not bright if anything it seems the highs are not working up to snuff. I have went many times to speaker to make sure tweeters are even working.

All in all they sound like crap except these Klipsch have such fantastic dynamics that even when not right they are exciting!

Makes me wonder about the people who do not like them if they are hearing worn out caps and cheap electronics? Then I can see why they do not like them! If I did not know better from 25+ years of ownership that would make sense.

For the new crossover I have chosen Mundorf Silver in Oil from what I have read and can afford. I want a warm not overly detailed sound as Klipsch already has lots of detail and does not need to be "livened up" they need lush smooth sounding caps. Hope I have made the right choice?

When the crossover is in I will do a initial impression on same lp's. Right now it goes from really bad (on what may be worn vinyl) to not as bad but NOT great on great vinyl. (I know the quality of the vinyl because tested on other speakers Linn)

The new caps are Mundorf Silver in Oil and new copper foil inductors are coming. I will at the same time be rewiring the speakers to 12 guage from the lamp cord that PWK put in. PWK was a master at getting very good sound often with crap by today's standards components.

The choice of speakers would be a toss up now depending on what I am listening to. Klipsch vastly more dynamic but if the breaking up of the sound becomes to much to effect enjoyment the Linn would be a better choice on that Lp. If I could I would switch a button back and forth between speakers depending on song and how bad the break-up sound was bothering me.

volleyguy
davidpritchard's avatar
davidpritchard
866 posts
 
Congratulations on the Duelund wire purchase. How many feet will you be using? For my system of 4 drivers per speaker, I will need a total of about 84 feet. I have had one person suggest soldering the hook up wire to the speakers and also solder at the crossover connection. That makes sense to me.
Did Partsconnexion give you any info on the Duelund wire? Michael and Chris were quite helpful when I placed my capacitor order.
I look forward to your experience with the more complete Duelund sound.
David Pritchard
volleyguy OP
789 posts
 
I "hope" to notice a difference. I was a mid fi store today just checking on some connections etc and think I am going to hard wire as well. Klipsch used to use some pretty crappy parts like spades connection strips etc. Paul Klipsch of course is famous for saying anything more than lamp cord for speaker wire is b*llshit! I do not agree with that statement and have noticed an improvement going to heavier gauge but have never used expensive wire. My linn speakers came with $1k of Linn tri-wire and like I said on here before it ran through a $2 tweeter cap and to me that is b*llshit! I am not going crazy on wire and hope to notice an improvement but really am not holding my breath somewhat heavier guage and no plastic.

If someone said to me a choice of $ on wire or Duelund caps it would take .2 seconds to decide that!
ait
480 posts
 
I'm rebuilding a set of Infinity RSIIb speakers with external crossovers and I'm using Cardas Copper Litz wire (Teflon insulation), 17.5 gauge on the tweeters, 15.5 gauge on the mids, and 11.5 gauge on the woofers. There are a total of 8 drivers, ten inductors, nine caps and four resistors per speaker. A little harder to work with but Litz wire is said to provide better transfer of high frequencies, and since every strand is individually coated with lacquer, it will never corrode. Will be a big step up over the original wire, which is actually Monster cable that had started to turn green from oxidation (it says "Wired with Monster Cable" right on the speaker). I thought about the Duelund wire but the oiled cotton insulation turned me off - it sounds a bit messy to me, especially since the wire will be outside the speakers due to my external crossover.

There are some who feel that there are maximum gauges for each level of driver, i.e. don't use too big of a gauge on a tweeter or you will lose some of the detail.

My speaker cables are Zu Ibis, pricey but very, very detailed.
sherod
1,690 posts
 
Ait,
Let us know how that Cardas Litz works out for you. Serguei, at Stealth Audio, is also a strong proponent of litz wire. In a good geometry, litz has many advantages versus other conductor types. Sounds like you're going to be a happy guy, especially after getting rid of the Monster stuff.
volleyguy OP
789 posts
 
Ait the Duelund cotton concerned you? Do you mean from a short point of view?

Interesting on the tweeter wire I have always wondered that if lighter wire for delicate signal but have no proof.

I am only using Duelund wire out of respect. The company who gave me the most bang for the buck improvement (new) ever and tonal realism I did not know possible from their caps is getting my $'s.

I wish Frederik would come back on and say what to do? Silver for tweeters and copper or whatever for woofer but I doubt he will do that?

When looking at connectors at mid fi store I did hear their top stereo and Holy Crap am I getting spoiled! (it was like black and white after having colour) I have to drive about an hour to hear real expensive stuff and am going to do it. Not trying to brag but I think my speakers will SMOKE anything they have!
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