Cheap tweak from Virtual Dynamics:

Torque would indeed be a factor. As I said my bass driver,crossover and amp are tuned ..by ear. I have not recorded the settings by torque measurements but by ear and then recording the postion like the hands on a clock. During shipment of any device that is "tuned" at the factory the tuning will change in transit to the end user. The tuning will also "relax" with use. Retuning may also be required with changes in cables, electronics, tube brands and room acoustic additions. Increased resolution as I found with the addition of the modified Altmann Dac, D-Clock, PS Audio transport all AVM treated and Rick's magnetic replacement fuses made for quick apparent retuning by ear. Yep that feels right! Now sit down and enjoy. Right was obvious. Tom

Sherod, The torque to "tune" applied would vary from speaker to speaker. Cabinet structure and material.. driver frame material and even the number of fasteners.....T Nuts used? Hey what about speaker stands? Coupling or de-coupling materials? How about the flooring material, it too would make for a difference. Yea but its easy. Tom

Tom,
I understand the tuning by ear. Although I was experimenting with the torque using a screwdriver with a torque setting, I could hear the difference with each incremental setting. All this tweaking with the brass screws and proper torqueing not only puts the soundstage into perspective, but the best tone, timbre, and dynamics are also achieved when the setting is "just right".
Currently, I am using some heavy metal stands filled with playground sand. My floor is a concrete slab that is carpeted with a 1/2" foam padding under the carpet. The stands have basic cheap steel spikes that came with the stands. I am considering buying some Audiopoints, but I have read that the Audiopoints are more effective on a wood floor. I am de-coupling my mini-monitors from the stands with squishy isonode feet.

Sorry, Grant. I got carried away with other tweaks in mind. Sometimes my brain gets ahead of me. (O: