2. misc-audio
  3. 174960-163433

Dedicated Circuits - Subpanel importance?

My system is no more. Sold everything. Starting from scratch. Thanks to you and seven months of experience I am doing the following, which is taking care of the number one component, the room:

  1. Treating. The full GIK order in October is starting to arrive.
  2. Running one or more dedicated circuits.

I am addressing #2 in this post. There are extensive discussions here and one can spend hours if not days trying to wring-out the critical details needed for a DIY solution. I have spent hours and there a few things I need to confirm before I proceed because I was unable to find definitive answers.

I am doing this myself. I do not want or need lectures on only having a licensed electrician do this work. I have been doing my own electrical work for many years and am very comfortable doing so.

  1. Does a subpanel help? Is it required? Subpanels are typically supplied from a breaker off of the main panel's bus, so I'm guessing there is no advantage in terms of SQ? Perhaps if I can independently ground the subpanel it might make a difference?
  2. Opening up my walls is not an option, so I need to use conduit. This may restrict the number of lines if the wire should not share the same conduit? If I am restricted to Romex 8 or 10,2 versus metal-clad, is it okay for two runs to occupy the same conduit?
  3. How much better is metal-clad? Is it required vs Romex? Will metal conduit accomplish the same result with Romex?

Answers to these questions will complete my plans and I will go forward at speed. Hopefully this discussion helps others as well even if it's to know what to have their electrician setup for them.

Thank you!

 

 

 

 

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rajugsw
213 posts
 

I ran 10AWG stranded for my Audio only equipment using flexible Armored Conduit (AC) cable that my local electrical supply house provided me. He sold me the stranded 10AWG separately for the AC cable. What a pain in the Ass to fish 3 wires (H,N,GND) through about 70 ft. or so of AC ! But with a Fish Tape, I "got ’er done".

Installed a 20A Breaker at the panel for the Audio Equipment along with a Tripp Lite powerstrip (also 20A) into a PS Audio Receptacle. Ran another circuit 12 AWG AC solid conductor 70ft. run f(also 20A) or just my Computer Equipment, TV, ISP Modem/Router/WiFI box, and any other Computer peripherals.

Strangely, I had a recent power surge which took out my BAT VK50-SE Preamp (sent to their factory already). But NONE of my other equipment was affected. The Preamp was turned off as was everything else except the PS Audio DirectStream DAC and the Bluesound Node 2i.

No power regenerators or conditioning and my AC line is as quiet as a mouse. Maybe I’ll build a Balanced Transformer one day. But for now, I’m happy (until the BAT went down) :-(

lowrider57's avatar
lowrider57
5,417 posts
 

@rajugsw , power surge took out your preamp and didn’t trip the surge protector?

 

oldandslow's avatar
oldandslow
5 posts
 

I am retired with 30+ years in the electrical field. I do not claim to know everything about anything, yet I have answers to all of your questions. Please PM me if you are interested in discussing this further. My background started in residential wiring in the 1980s and retired in the Power generation and transmission field. I also have worked as a hobby doing home theater and 12vdc installations in my free time since I was a young buck at 14 years old. I am hesitant to post in the thread as every big brain will comment, most of which have no clue will want to argue or debate the topic. There is no debating the physics of electricity or proper grounding. Several questions need a yes answer before investing in power supply isolation is discussed. (Type of service entrance, proper grounding being most important in multiple A/C panel installs, bonding, provider voltage drop +/- up to 10% is allowed and set by your utility provider, not the national electrical code.

With Respect,

Grizz

Chad Allen Braden

IBEW Journeyman wireman, power station electrician, certified C & I tech, Electrical shop owner, and so on. I am not an engineer at a desk, I have hands-on knowledge of installation and maintenance. I would still be working if not for being chased by the reaper due to an untreatable nervous system disorder.

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cleeds
5,943 posts
 
ldandslow

... provider voltage drop +/- up to 10% is allowed and set by your utility provider, not the national electrical code.

Where I live and in most US states electric utilities are regulated by a Board of Public Utilities or similar entity. The board sets standards, not the utility; the NEC has nothing to do with it. Household voltage in the US is typically spec'd at 120VAC ±5 percent, and a utility must conform to the standard. To be clear, it may not be an easy matter to get a utility to provide the service as required, but it can be done.

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