Dedicated power lines-getting started

Double-oy! When I added a family-room to my house here in Medford the lectrical inspector insisted that I install a duplex in EVERY wall at least 18" long, INCLUDING the one between adjoining (20" apart!) bathroom and basement doors!
There it was: chapter, verse and line. Somehow he didn't question the oh-so-bright 83802 dedicated lines streaking from the breaker box across the basement ceiling. But then the former only proves he may be wrong on the latter. Sigh....

Belden tech support replied to my email and said they recommend their FPLP cable (83802, 83803, etc.) not be used for 110v power supply, from panel to receptacle. They said it is for "Control and Instrumentation" cables for Fire Alarm and Tray applications and are not designed for 110v applications.

The assistant state electrical inspector and regional offices both said an emphatic "NO" when I asked if FPLP can be used in this manner. I have now contacted three electricians, the regional and state electrical inpectors offices, and Belden tech support. They all give the same answer.

I had hoped 83803, at least, could be approved but unless it was overlooked by the local inspector it would not be, not in my state. I was told I'd have to get it all removed at whatever phase of construction it was discovered. That could prove to be a very costly mistake.

Huh? But it's rated to 300v!
I wonder if the relatively tender Teflon outer jacket is the issue here? I cover it with a clear vinyl jacket for protection and a decent "hand" in my PCKits. It'd be a shame if one had to run it through conduit or another sleeve just for code-approval, as it probably works better with its minimal all-Teflon dielectric.
When you physically look at it compared to 12/2 or 12/3 Romex it's quite a surprise to hear that it's "not recommended". Certainly the vendors I've spoken with don't question its use at 120v....
Ican think of no better-sounding affordable cable for dedicated lines. It'd be a shame if potential users are disuaded from using it because of fear of having to snip it off at both ends if "discovered" by a hawkish inspector.
Very costly to remove? At least not in Massachusetts. Code requires that all "old work" be removed ONLY when discovered upon having full access, like when a floor or ceiling are ripped up and you see a few old cut up lines sitting there (as happened to me in my 1910 house).
NO-ONE to my knowledge has ever been asked to remove, or even disconnect, an 83802/3 line used for 120v.
I don't pretend to be an expert on codes and wire insulation classification. When you cut up the 8380x and look at its construction it seems awfully sensible to use for our audio power purposes. Since it's all-Teflon dielectric I know that it couldn't possibly be reponsible for starting a fire, so I'll take my chances, being pretty confident that a personal insurance adjuster could easily protect me from an aggressive company inspector if there's ever a catastrophe. I don't mean to be argumentative. I just want this excellent,very cost-effective product to be available to us. You couldn't design or make a better power cord for 5 times the price on a small scale....

Receptacle spacing has been in the NEC forever, and is no bigie; in fact it's too conservative. No one would design a modern residence to Code minimum - and remember, the Code is *not a design guide, and most of it's requirements are *minimums.

Ditto Eagle. The wire mentioned is UL and NEC defined as Power Limited Fire Alarm Cable. The prob w/ 300V rated wire intended for power circuits is the abuse and abrasion that may occur on installation. Especially on retrofits. There isn't much margin for error. Hence building wire is all 600V insulation rated... It's thick, it's fat, and intended on getting beat up on installation.

Yeah, you could make up some PC's with this cable that would be OK, but you had better know what you're doing, and don't plan on dragging them around or walking on them...

There is, no subsitute or compromise when it comes to electrical safety.

Thanks, Shasta.
I enclose this type (83802/3) cable in appropriate vinyl outer jackets for abrasion-resistance and tight PC connections. Nonetheless, pulling it through old lathe isn't something to be cavalier about. I suggest that naked 83802/3 be used carefully, threaded where it's visually verifiably safe, and perhaps terminated in loose "floating" power boxes rather than risking pulling across an old nail behind a lathe near an existing old duplex. But Romex is certainly at risk for the same reasons, although its junk-jacket is indeed tougher than pure soft teflon. Catch 22 again....