Eminent Technology ET-2 Tonearm Owners

Chris,
Bruce shipped it today, I'm like a kid waiting for Christmas.
Harry

Hey Chris,
You did some good research.
I was fortunate to have a large hobby shop in my town, and just brought the original I-beam with me to compare sizes. A micrometer might be useful if you order online, or wait for Bruce's run.
Yes, Bruce told me that he liked my modification, and admitted that sales were up since this thread was resurrected. He said that he had serious size constraints, based on the tables in production at the time, and would have made his I-beam longer if it weren't for this.
I forgot to ask whether the carbon fiber made any difference, but I doubt it's critical.
I'm going to experiment over the weekend with adding extra springs to my I-beam,
without any damping fluid in the trough. 
John

I remember Frogman and Banquo363 trying longer beams - but they made them out of wood so they didn't work out. The I beam needs to live and breathe (resonate/vibrate) like the cart, and should be matched to the vibrating cart. More springs on the I Beam make it firmer less compliant. so match it to a less compliant cart. This is what makes the ET2 unique over all other tonearms. Put it another way all other tonearms are 2d, compared to the ET2 with this added dimension; becomes 3d. Pro reviewers never figured this part out; being able match this tonearm to any cart that exists.

Whatever the length of the I Beam ...

Physics and our childhood memories, say the absolute best teeter totter ride is when both friends are of equal or close to each other in weight; and BOTH are sitting on the seat. Moving the weight forward of the seat for one of them, to balance unequal weights, and the ride is never as good.

So whatever the length of the I Beam ... I would be setting up (cutting) the longer modded I beam so the weights rest at the end of the plank just like the cartridge on the armtube side.

Very easy to test that one out.

Good memory, Chris. This was my post from 4+ (!) years ago:

++++ I have constructed an I beam (balsa wood) that uses a leaf spring from one of the regular ET I beams which allows me to to move the counterweights up to 6 inches from the spindle; although not the 7 inches that I implied. With my cartridges which are either medium compliance Vandenhuls or high compliance MM’s, the improvement in bass weight and detail is significant. One other way to experiment with moving the weight further from the spindle is by using the threaded brass weights on the threaded rod that secures the regular lead weights to the counterweight holder. This allows the weight to be further back, and effectively "extending" the I beam.

Speaking of the I beams, no one has mentioned the importance of experimenting with leaf springs of different compliances. I have three ET (plastic) I beams, each of a different compliance. The lower the compliance the more tightly focused the sound is. Higher compliance springs make the sound a little "bloomier", with an all around easier presentation. ++++

Since adding a pair of REL subs to my system I have revised my findings somewhat since, as has been pointed out, moving the weight back TOO MUCH can cause other problems. On balance, I love what the REL’s are doing for the sound, but with the extended I-beam I find it more difficult to integrate them in a way that sounds natural. I am currently not using it.

So glad to see all the recent activity on this thread. What a great tonearm this is! I never cease to be amazed at the genius behind this design and the fabulously natural sound that it yields. Chris should be commended for his excellent tutorials and advise. A couple of comments on recent discussions:

As was recently pointed out by Chris, as with the setup of a fine musical instrument, it’s all about resonances. With that in mind, I have found that a worthwhile setup detail is making sure that the bolts, adjustment and otherwise, and especially the bolts that secure the two end caps are not too tight which, if too tight, can actually deform the spindle and cause biding at the start and end of its trajectory in the manifold. But beyond that extreme what I am talking about (and I don’t think I am imagining this) is that when all the bolts are tightened "just enough" and with close to equal torque the sound seems to take on even more of that wonderful "this is what live music sounds like" quality that this arm gives like no other in my (limited) experience.

Chris, on a completely unrelated topic: you made me chuckle at the mention of your dog not being allowed downstairs. My beagle/lab shedding machine is not allowed in my studio, nor upstairs where the bedrooms are; although pet hair seems to find its way everywhere, even where the critters are not allowed. After being intrigued by these gizmos and not taking the plunge due to skepticism about whether they would actually work, we finally bought a (now two) robotic vacuums. It is not an exaggeration to say that they have been life changers. This one, which is actually one of the least expensive ones does an amazing job of keeping the floors where the pooch roams clean between full house cleanings, and consequently all other areas and surfaces stay noticeably cleaner as well. It was also a lot of fun watching Artie’s reaction to his new mechanical bud. Highly recommended. Regards.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N9P4NH5/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Frogman
re: Torquing of bolts. I own a few torque wrenches, big ones for auto + the mini torque wrenches we can use for this audio hobby. The issue I have with them is that the torque settings for these random bolts are meant for the nut/bolt, and not the part that they are holding in. The people who sell us these bolts have no idea what we are screwing them into. 
So along with what you were saying, there is this torque wrench in my head for this tonearm that has three settings - loose, snug and tight. I have never had anything go "loose" on the snug setting. But did crack the end cap many years ago on the tight setting. The most important bolt settings imo, are those that set the distance gap for the VTA bearing block.

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re:Cleaning robot.
I keep seeing these things in the flyers that come to the house. If I brought in that cleaning robot, turned it on and and let it go on our main floor I think I would have two different reactions, especially if a big purpose of the cleaning is to vacuum up the dog hairs. .

If my daughters RCA Victor dog "Lucky" was visiting, (half Mexican/half English) Chihuahua / Jack Russell mix. He wouldn't stop chasing and yapping at the thing. A very loving attention craving dog, but when he barks, he doesn't stop and it can get annoying. He also sheds like crazy but otherwise a good watch dog. Warns me when I am home alone, if the Kids and wife are within 200 feet from the house and approaching.

With Koaltar our black Lab, its the opposite reaction. He has not been running with me with over winter as I run on a treadmill, so he has put on a few pounds - probably gone from 76 to 80lbs. He would probably just lay in the middle of the floor and let the robot keep bouncing off of him like he does with Lucky. Oh the black hairs... and the main floor is a cream colored ceramic floor.  

If one could put two Koaltars beside ones listening chair, you would have significant damping taking place. Maybe even enough to require a need to change out a leaf spring. :^)

The hobby shop has the foot long gleaming white I beams. Was trying to imagine what the cat would be thinking if she got a look at it.
  
Curious to found out how John's stock 2 spring I Beam, compares to his modded I beam using the Mag wand.
Cheers