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Have a Victor UA-7045 tonearm coming

I've been searching for either a Victor UA-7082 or a UA-7045 tonearm ever since I purchased my Victor CL-P2 plinth with two arm boards.
The rear arm is almost ready to go, it's a Audio Technica ATP-12T mounted in a custom aluminum armboard. I also had to machine a bracket to add a Jelco JL-45 tonearm cueing device and a tonearm rest. This should be perfect for my low compliance DL-103.I have been looking at both models of the Victor arms and have posted WTB on several forums, watching Ebay but nothing nice has come up. So for the past month I have been keeping an eye out on the Japanese website Yahoo Buyee and finally saw something I liked. It's a clean looking UA-7045 that should work out nicely.
https://buyee.jp/item/yahoo/auction/v741873067?_=cnZxVG5GZVlFQTA3VEZVTDBjQnRCS1RGYWtnTW1ZOTZORUVmb2R...=I won the auction this morning for $202.81, way cheaper than I've ever seen one of these go for. estimated shipping is around $50.00 via DHL. It takes up to two weeks for the seller to get the arm shipped to Buyee and they will inspect and repackage it for shipment via DHL. So in several weeks I'll have this in my hands.
Since I know the spindle to pivot distance I will machine an armboard for it in advance.
Anybody familiar with this series of arms knows all about the rubber damper in the counterweight stub that degrades and causes the dreaded tonearm droop where the weight starts hanging down.
There are two types of this series of arms, those that have the droop (most) and those that will develop it soon. Aging rubber and gravity never let up. Every arm will eventually have this problem.
I've talked to my friend Elliott about this as he had one of these arms for a short time. He sent me a sketch of a rubber piece that he made from hardware parts that he used to fix his. Between Elliott and the internet I found enough info to figure out how this comes apart but I'm not entirely happy with the fix. Since Victor can't supply the rubber dampers I've been thinking about possibly making a mold and casting them out of urethane. I have samples of urethane coming to me from a supplier so I can compare the hardness of the rubber bushing to the urethane samples to find a close matching durometer value.
The mold will be a simple affair, machined out of aluminum. I need to dig out a vacuum pump buried in my garage to see if it works and I found a vacuum chamber on Ebay for 50 bucks.
Once I get the arm I'll pull the stub off and get some critical measurements and work from there. I can even do a temporary fix on the stub until I have a decent result as I have never cast urethane before.Anyway, I'm very excited to be getting this tonearm and at least one member here (chakster) talks very highly of it.

BillWojo




billwojo
elliottbnewcombjr
5,599 posts
 
lewm

1. ignore the #’s on the tt arm’s anti-skate dial, they are often way off. I prefer the notched rod/dangling weight of SME type, one of the features of the long arm I bought.

2, start with the blank lp, whatever it’s made of, it get’s you CLOSE

https://www.dropbox.com/s/gw99w7d345p7wz5/Blank%20Record%20Antiskate%20Setup.MOV?dl=0

3. REFINE using very familiar music with strong l/r/c content, like the one’s I keep posting (I don’t like test lps, but they can work).

a. CD version to verify the system is truly balanced
b. LP version, adjust anti-skate for matching imaging, done.

4. My familiar music.

a. three distinct guitarists, and equal live audience sounds, side 2, tracks 2 and 3

youtube of that lp
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W3BzAKHCEvo

b. center done right, Cassandra Wilson on this entire album.

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Light-Dawn-Cassandra-Wilson/dp/B000005HBI

c. Eurythmics, Studio LP’s, lots of strong l/r, sound effects, Annie Lennox centered

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eurythmics

d. take along CD versions to evaluate a sound system

and bring these two

hear their voices distinctly

https://www.google.com/search?gs_ssp=eJzj4tVP1zc0TDMyM7csK7M0YPSSy8tXyM0vSlUoSU0sKlZIzcsvTc9QyISxAFO...

lots for evaluation, and Richard Burton better sound like Richard Burton

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jeff_Wayne%27s_Musical_Version_of_The_War_of_the_Worlds



elliottbnewcombjr
5,599 posts
 
war of the worlds

The album was one of the first recorded on 48 tracks, using two synchronised 24 track Studer A80s at Advision Studios in London. It was engineered by Geoff Young, who brought the recordings together with only a 16 channel desk
gstefurak
5 posts
 

Hello to all vinyl addicts!

I am always impressed at the level of detail we as a group delve into in search of that perfect sound. Having recently retired I am reviving my vinyl addiction. I recently acquired a new denon103r, had terry robinson at paradox pulse repot the cartridge, and had Joseph Long replace the stock cantilever and tip with a ruby cantilever and a Geyger S diamond tip. However ,on my origin live modified rega 300 arm on a bassis 1400 table something seemed missing. Having read a little about proper tonearm/cartridge pairings, I found a used ql-7 with a ua-7045 arm.

As the table looks very old, motor doesn't quartz lock, but my immediate concern is getting the arm refurbished. Does anyone here know who would be the best to restore the arm, (then eventually the motor), (then I will see if I can find a wood craftsman herein Vt. to make a plinth out of solid maple.)

Any thoughts or help is humbly appreciated.

Greg

chakster's avatar
chakster
6,144 posts
 

Greg, you can buy working turntable and working tonearm without any restoration, just look and buy properly working units, they are cheap. Victor UA-7045 tonearm cost no more than $750 in perfect operation condition, if you want victor turntable you'd better look for TT-81 (also cheap). 

lewm
13,265 posts
 

Greg, unfortunately getting the turntable to operate properly might be more complex and expensive than fixing your tonearm. However, the number one guru for DD TT repair is JP Jones. He can be found at fidelis analog, his website. As to the tonearm problem, maybe BIllwojo can help you. This thread is more than a year old, but maybe by now Bill has machined the needed rubber or rubbery parts to fix your tone arm, if it’s only problem is a floppy counterweight. Contrary to what Chakster insists, there is absolutely no reason why you cannot do a proper repair yourself. Removing the counterweight assembly is very easy to do. Just be sure you do not lose any of the tiny screws that one must remove.

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