Have Passive Preamps Finally Come of Age?


Back in the late 90s (eons ago) I tried a variety of passive preamps (PPs). The most musical was an autoformer, but back then my system was not balanced. For the last decade I have been using active preamps, both tube and solid state, but finding a quality balanced preamp under $4K is damn near impossible. Enter the Parasound P5 (2.1), which in addition to having balanced I/Os, it has a separate bass management circuit (MSRP $1095), and I was hoping it would provide better control over the built in class D plates incorporated into my 2 SVS powered subs, whose volume controls are STUPIDLY sensitive: when barely cracked from zero they overwhelm. Alas, no bueno. 

Recently i watched a PS Audio YT video that was emphatic about NOT connecting powered subs with interconnects; instead he recommends speaker cables piggybacked off the main systems amp/s. I had a spare set of DIY flat copper cables, and was shocked how much better they sounded, but doing so did not change the  volume control problem and unfortunately this id not bypass the SVS amps whose class D chips are now ancient. Thinking there could be an impedance problem led me to revisit PPs.

I sold my P5 and was using the XLR outs from my Oppo 105 (upgraded power supply and IEC/wiring to the power supply) direct to my Emerald Physics 100.2SEs (class D). The noise floor dropped tremendously, allowing me a much better view into the music. My Core Power Technologies 1800 PLC had more than a little to do with this, but...  

Days of PP research later, I came across LDRs, which seem like the ultimate PP option, but XLR versions are ~ $2K and up, with the Tortuga coming in at $2700, seems like a true SOTA bargain, just not in my current budget. Scouring the' for sale' sites I came across a Hattor XLR (MSRP $995) which was in my price range. Hattor's www had links to 2 reviews both were extremely positive: one used it in combination with a class D amp. Bingo! I snapped it up.

It arrived late yesterday, although Hattor's www pictures look awesome, they do not compare to seeing and touching it. The metal carrying case was an indication of the designer's dedication. This is an etremely well made piece of kit, but how does it sound? Alas it came with no manual and Hattor's site does not have a PDF. How hard can it be to hook up? Well, after a couple scary minutes, I discovered that it would not light up until I connected the 105. 

Stone cold, the first thing that shocked me was a further reduction in noise floor and an incredibly wide and deep sound stage, but as can be expected, it was dry. Fingers crossed, in about a half hour I began to be rewarded with texture as well. Tis only got better as the night wore on

I hope somebody chimes in with their Tortuga experience, or any other high quality PP information.that goes under the reporting radar. 
tweak1
Your assumption that I am doing all this just for the Hattor is incorrect. And 'respectfully disagreeing' doesn't change the reality

The changes were already in motion as I had sold my Parasound P5 preamp and had been using my 105 direct to the EPs for a couple months while I investigated preamps. Having owned the EPs for several years, it was time in class D years/advancements to upgrade

My plan to get the Nord ended when I realized it has way too much power for 94 dB speakers, which are even more amazing with the DPA-1s ability to provide an impedance match with the push of a button. The Nord is made and shipped from the EU, auditioning is out of the question. The speaker upgrade was unexpected when a unique opportunity presented itself

Of course I want to use the subs, BUT, AA owners manual specifically says not to piggyback off the DPA-1.. I am awaiting a reply as to why,. BUT.... the 3 D venue reproduction is so vast and the bass so strong with the AA that I don't miss the subs

Anything else you want to be wrong about? 
@tweak1  Wow. I’m sorry you took offense to my post. Remind me not to suggest anything again on one of your threads. You seem fairly confident in shooting down everyone’s suggestions with some defensive or snide remark. 
ROFLMAO. Had you ASKED questions instead of assuming, I would not have added the last sentence
@tweak1 why do you think that class D amplifiers are the way to go here? It seems that your bias is that class D represents the SOTA. Is that your position here?  

And why do you believe an amplifier’s inherent power output potential is too much power for a speaker of a given efficiency?

And what is the actual impedance input of your amp that results from flipping it to a higher dB output?
I have owned tube amps (including OTLs), tube preamps and cd players within and as a part of all tube systems,. I have also owned class A and AB amplifiers. They were all compromises in some way.

I like to listen during the day as background music as well as go to sleep listing to music, meaning system is on 24/7.

Class D, at least at this level, and to my ears, is sonicly as good, and will last without tube reacements, Class A heat causing premature parts breakdown...

The rst you can look up yourself, as you seem to have nothing better to do