Help / Comments - New Construction - Sort of...


Thanks for taking the time to read this if you are... It is a bit bittersweet for me, but the wife and I have put an offer in on a new home and it has been accepted. It is a bit sad after years of hard work into our current home, however situations with her business really dictate we move and build custom.

Now with the sweet of the bittersweet... The "better half" has also allowed me to use the "bonus room" as my dedicated listening room. It measures roughly 15'8" x 21'9" with a ceiling height of 9'. I have made some "minor" requests to the builder at this time. There is to be a "coffered ceiling" which consists of 6" wide by 8" deep beams... square pattern to consist of nine roughly 5'x7' rectangles. I am hoping this will help with diffusion. I have also requested the entire room be hung with double layers of sheetrock. The room is located on the second floor. Also to have 5 dedicated 20 amp lines ran to the room. On the short wall (behind my listening position) is the "chute" for the chimney from the greatroom below. This is approx 18" deep by 3 feet wide. I have made arrangements for cabinets (waist high) and bookshelves to the ceiling (for vinyl) to flank either side of the chimney chute. Only other option at this point was a solid door as well. I am planning on providing the cryo'd romex and duplex' and plan to have the breakers all on the same leg at the top of the box...

All else is yet to be determined. I have a wife that does not want *any* type of "tacky" sonic correction stuff anywhere... the best I have gotten so far is my Eighth Nerve room pack up...

So any suggestions, must do's... let me know. I am not certain I want double drywall, but was told that the stiffer the wall, the better the bass, and livlier the room, as well as help to isolate the sound.

At this point, we just signed the contract this evening, thus all *could be* changed... however budget is about zip, zero, zilch, nada, you get the idea... thus I worked the above into the room with the builder at this point. However, they estimate it will be 6 to 7 months until closing so if there ARE any "MUST DO" suggestions (afraid there will be many...) I do have time to react.

All help is greatly appreciated. My system link has all my gear, minus my TT that is on the way... Nottingham Spacedeck with Ace Space Arm, ZYX Airy3-S-SB with the Whest phono stage...
audiofankj
Hi Audiofankj - in response to your question concerning the floor, IMO it would be most beneficial to double the floor joists, especially considering the fact that you use an analog source in your system. Without looking at the framing blueprints nor knowing what length of span is required, I would assume typical construction methods would entail using 2X10 joist lumber (and dependent on local building codes, the builder may be able to get away w/ using 2X8's). This, of course, is quite sufficient to carry normal second floor loads, but will still possess a certain amount of "flex". Again, doubling the joists will greatly strengthen the floor system, and while you're at it, spike the hell out of the doubled pairs (and to really get serious, lay some construction adhesive between the pairs before nailing) You are essentially forming "built-up" beams by doing all this labor. And timed right, you and some buddies could do this on a weekend (the contractor would need to know so as not to apply the decking before you got to it). As an aside, but probably prohibitive if working within a tight budget, is the availability of new types of trussed or plywood I-beam joist systems which could also be considered (you'd need to consult an architect on this subject).

Concerning the plywood, it pretty much depends on what the finished flooring will be, and how they typically do the work in your area. I would want a finished floor no less than one to one and a quarter inch minimum thickness. For example, if you go with a wood floor, this would equal approx. one and one-half inches finished. And, again, using construction adhesive on top of the joists before the subfloor plywood is layed will be of benefit.

Sorry - don't really know what level of experience/knowledge
you have with constuction techniques - kinda hard to know how to discuss here. If interested, just drop an email and we can discuss this ad nauseum. I was "complaining" to another AudiogoNer just recently that most of my forum participation is of the 'asking for help' variety, but this is one area that I can offer some suggestions. Regards ...Tom
Thank you Tom. I will shoot you an email later, as my knowledge of construction is very limited at best... I do think the builder we have chosen is using the "I beam" joists under the floor, but I will have to confirm that. Thanks again for all the input.
Ok, I stopped by the subdivision this evening. Our house hasn't begun construction yet, however another with almost exact floorplan is near completion of the framing stage. I think the builder is using what I think I have heard termed as "engineered lumber" ... all of the boards seem to be precut to certain specifications for this "Earth Craft" home... The joists holding up the flooring on the second story bonus room appear to be a 10" long piece of plywood sandwiched with what appears to almost be the size of 2x4's on either end by about 16 feet long (the width of the room)... side view they appear to look just like " I ". The total height/depth of the " I " joists was about 14" tall by the width of the room. The spacing seemed quite wide to me, about 18" or so... I wasn't able to get an extremely accurate measurement. The flooring was 1/2 or 5/8" plywood nailed in. I will most likely go back through when mine is being built and at least screw the floorboards in as well...

Any suggestions on what I saw? - Thanks again.
Audiofanki, they are called engineered I joists. The ones with the 2X4 on the top and bottom are the best. 18" centers, I would think more like 16" centers, hopefully not 19.2" centers. With these I joists the builder usually does not install any bridging supports between them. I would find out how much he would charge you to install solid bridging at least down the center span of the I joists. Sub floor 1/2" or 5/8"? Are you installing a hard wood flooring over this? another 3/4"? If not and it is carpet usually the subfloor is 5/8" min and even 3/4". An above post suggested a min of 1" to 1 1/4 thickness, that is a good idea but you need to get on the ball and talk to the builder. You may have a floor thickness issue of the area just on the other side of the room entry door to contend with.

As for your wall construction you may want to check out this site.

http://www.asc-soundproof.com/iso-diagrams.htm

Jim