Help Match Cables To Gear Please


Hello all. 
I’m a long time member and lurker but have never dove down the rabbit hole of cables mainly because all the misinformation floating around. 
Little back info-

I’m 40 years old and have never been in the camp of denier or believer in High-End/HiFi/Audiophile cables but always knew better than to flush money away on something I couldn’t return if wasn’t satisfied with purchasing. But now that I can listen to demos on the internet and clearly hear a difference on some of the videos I feel a heck of a lot more comfortable in purchasing higher end cables over the internet. 
I live in a rural city in SW Kentucky so have never had the opportunity to demo various high end audio products while growing up. I did however purchase my first AVR and big box 15” speakers at age 11 so I have been into both audio and video relatively all my life. 
I’ve always just gone by the reference, “you get what you pay for” with pretty much everything. This approach has at least kept me away from cheap zip cord and the such but also has kept me from trying any sort of audio cables that I feel would better match my gear since there weren’t any vendors in my area. Sticking to brands that are known in the industry like Mogami have been my “go to” for speaker cables and interconnects. 
When I was trying to find demos I could actually hear a difference over the internet I stumbled across a cable demonstration by Danacables that clearly showed how one of their designs helped control the actual speaker by making it stop faster than regular off the shelf zip cord. 
Between physically seeing a cable affect the speaker and being able to hear differences I felt like there really couldn’t be that many “snake oil” companies out there if real companies are in the market too. I’ve always felt like we have been introducing all kinds of new pollutants  into our environment with new technologies yet I’ve never tried upgrading cables that could help eliminate these unwanted pollutants. Not only would these new unwanted variables be put in check but also some of the newer speaker cable technology in general could be applied at the same time. I’m no scientist but have a feeling cable can’t just be cable when I’ve been using the same product that was basically used by my grandparents for the most part. Maybe I have the oxygen free advantage but that is it most likely. The rest of the world surrounding us has changed greatly since my grandparents were purchasing speaker wire but yet Ive been using the same thing out of pure ignorance listening to those who claim cables are cables. 
Now that I believe I have a “permanent” system in place in my dedicated theater room I want to try to match my gear to some cables that should in theory bring out the best in the total system. 
Being that this is a theater room I have to consider which way to proceed as far as spending money on cables since I can’t afford to wire the entire room with ultra expensive cabling. There are just way too many channels, amplifiers, and speakers to purchase crazy expensive cabling for all of it. 
My thinking is to run the best possible speaker cables to the LCRs. Use upgraded power cables for all the amplifiers, and use upgraded XLR cables to the LCRs while sticking to Mogami XLRs for the rest of the surrounds unless I notice a dramatic difference when swapping my LCR cables to the surrounds. 
My system consists of the following-

Pre Pro- Trinnov Altitude32
LCR- Quested Audio LT20s (custom) totally active
Lc/Rc and DTS-X Pro Front Heights LCRs are all LT10s
Remaining Surrounds- Quested Audio Z8s
LCR Mid and Sub Amps- MC2
LCR AMT Amps- Hypex NCore 500 Monoblocks per AMT driver. 
So with that gear my experience tells me that the AMT drivers across the board from my LCRs to the Z8 surrounds have a very revealing, crisp sound with a super wide soundstage. Sorry I’m not good at descriptions with audio products. 
The midrange drivers are super clear but not quite ultra revealing, more cool than warm, and have huge transients. 
The sub drivers are what I would call fast and crisp but lacking in punch or attack. I also have separate modules ran to the LCRs for further ULF extension making them a 4-way instead of a 3-way. These bass modules are using AE 18” drivers in a vented enclosure with #10 OFC wire but willing to upgrade this wire as well if it’s not outrageous being that the bass setup in home theater is generally completely different than general stereo applications but I’m all for better sonics regardless. 
Then I have way too many subs and mid bass modules to detail. Most of the subs are 21” and 24” high xmax drivers all ran for maximum Ultra Low Frequency extension for movies. They are flat down to 3-5hz at the MLP. All these subs and bass modules are currently wired with the same #10 OFC wire as the LCR sub drivers. 
I think I covered my situation and background well enough as I hate dragging those who read this along even more. So if there are any who think they have experienced greatness out of certain combinations with similar gear please do share!

Bests
Alex
 


alford_r35
Study and learn: https://systems.audiogon.com/systems/8367 
Notice: really high end interconnects and speaker cables, pretty good power cords, el cheapo wire to the subs. Because I have tried better wire in different places over the years, and this is where it pays and where it does not pay to spend the money. 

Also notice, no center, surround, processor, etc. Been there, done that. Like you yourself said, having so many things means you cannot afford quality. But quality is what we are after. So....

I second the Audio Envy recommendation.  The captain caters to pro audio as well as domestic, and offers at least a couple of price points in each category.  I would assemble a wish-list and then have a good conversation with him.
I suggest you PM or call John Rutan (audioconnection).
He knows equipment and cabling better than most.
Bob
A source component and a receiving component and a wire form a transfer function, and no one can guess, without knowing exactly the source and receiving component, how any cable will behave beyond generalities, i.e. like a low inductance cable "may" increase your output at 20KHz by a fraction of  a db, or increasing the gauge of your cable may increase the bass output primarily by a fraction of a db.  Beyond that it is guessing and conjecture which is why there is absolutely 0 consensus. Fix your acoustics if you have not already. It's a way better investment. As you DIY, you should be able to identify cable bottle necks. If you can't, perhaps that is not it?
@millercarbon this is a dedicated theater room with 50 plus individual channels and seating for 10. This is not a room for dedicated music listening other than multichannel audio recordings. 
With that said, I already have well over $250,000 into the room so figured would upgrade my Canare speaker cabling if could figure out a good neutral speaker cable that might add some more clarity or detail to the system without taking anything else away. This is the best I know how to describe what I hear when listen to A/B demos over the internet. 
My speakers/amps/processor are already dead silent with as black a background as I could ever ask for I would imagine. I can’t hear any sort of sounds coming from any of the drivers when there isn’t supposed to be and the dynamics are huge with the gear I have matched together. It’s literally crazy how the dynamics swing effortlessly. 
What I’m hoping to achieve with speaker cables and power cables is like a lifting of a veil kinda. Bring out more of what may be left in the recordings, if that is possible as the AMTs and Beyma mids are extremely revealing already. 
The soundstage is also huge in both height and width. It literally takes up the entire 18’ width of the room and 10’ height no problem but it could be more defined or layered (sorry not sure on proper term to use there). 
I’m already using great interconnects but nothing I would consider as high end. And I’m also using pretty decent speaker cabling to all the subs, all 200+ feet of OFC #10. 
But if there is anything I can gain without jumping to the upper extremes then I’m game. Hope that clears it up a little. 
Bests
Alex