How do I bi-wire and bi-amp?

Patrick--the LF part of the signal going to the "High" input gets filtered out by the internal XO in the speaker. Same with the HF part of the signal going to the "Low" input of the speaker.

In my situation, the internal speaker XO can't be taken out of the path, nor does ML recommend use of an active XO, b/c the internal XO is really part of the ML Force Forward design. I gather there are some phase issues that go haywire with an active XO.

Perhaps I should have just bought "bigger" amps. But, I started with one that I had, and got a real good deal on the second one, so reality enters the picture (i.e., buy another VT100Mk III for $3K, or sell my one VT100MkIII for $3K and dump at least $6K beyond that on a pair of VTM200s). I can't bridge them to mono, and, even if I could have, I gather there may be bad issues with bridging resulting from halving the effective impedence seen by the amp, especially aggravated by complex low impedence loads like ESLs.

My rig sounds better now to my ears. Maybe that is because the loads presented to the two amps are easier to drive, even without bi-amping with an active XO. I have to believe the load presented by a high pass filter and an ESL panel is significantly easier for an amp to deal with than the load presented by a XO networked to an ESL and a conventional driver.

Edesilva,

Thanks for the reply to my question. I hope I wasn't misunderstood as being critical, it's just that I couldn't (can't) grasp a benefit beyond a single, larger amp. I can certainly appreciate making the most out of a couple of excellent deals. :) The bi-amping as described seems to be a method of choice for a number of audiophiles. Many things that are discussed in the forums here are beyond my experiences with this being one of them. I have so many questions and life is too short to get all the answers. There are many ways to skin the audio cat.

Patrick

Edesilva- I'm not at all familiar with your ML's, but am curious about how you cross over before the signal gets to the amps. If passive, are you able to adjust slope and balance? How do you then run speaker wire separately to the LF and HF drivers? From what you seem to be saying, you somehow do a XO before the amps, then run speaker wires to the ML's XO, which sort of sounds like a hybrid bi-amp/bi-wire arrangement. Perhaps you could describe your set-up? I have a pair of Maggies that I'm looking to experiment with bi-amping and would like to consider all options.

Patrick- One of the other advantages of bi-amping is that you can use amps with less power as both amps work more efficiently within their narrower bandwidth. Typically, the amp for HF is around half of the power of the LF amp as LF's suck alot of power. A 200 watt LF amp with a 100 watt HF amp plus the XO may outperform and play louder than one 300 watt amp.

Regards
Jim

Jim-

The ML XO is in the speakers. I'm not using an XO prior to the amps... Being a tech dilettante, I assumed that a bi-wire capable speaker meant that the internal speaker XO is a high pass filter and a low pass filter that get split when you remove the jumper from the speaker terminals. That may be oversimplification and confusing. But, there are no filter or XO elements I use outside the speaker--pre goes to amps, each amp goes direct to a speaker terminal on the MLs.

Edesilva- THanks. I'm a little lost, but it's probably because I'm not familiar with the speaker. Sounds like it's a little closer to a bi-wire with with an amp for each wire pair?? I'll find a dealer and take a peek....

Jim