How to upgrade a nondetachable power cord?


Hi
My Conrad Johnson amplifier has a captive power cord.
I have bought a VH audio diy kit to make a new power cord. So, What do you recommend?
- Cut the original amp cable and put a female connector and then plug the new cord
or
- Open the amplifier and attach the new cord inside the amplifier. This would take a big hole to do it.
Please give some advice
Thanks
ALAN
128x128alanbrain
The last time I looked into the "how to" of this matter, it seems to me there were chassis punches available that accommodate either 15 or 20 amp IEC receptacles. I'm sure you can find them to purchase, or (even better!) a repairperson who has them, and would do it for you for a small charge.
I would contact CJ about them installing an IEC as they will give you better advice than anyone else can. Otherwise I am with downunder don't mess with it.

Chuck
Tomorrow I will finish the female instalation. I will tell you the results.
I understand that CJ put the captive power cord for some reason and in that time (mid 80s) it was the better option. But maybe today is not the better option to go.
ALAN
Alan, in the mid eighties, no one used detachable PCs except for portable or pro equipment. Certainly NOBODY used alternative aftermarket PCs, because there was no such animal.

If you needed a longer PC on your amp or whatever, you used an extension cord. And if the PC it came with was longer than you needed, why you coiled it up real tight and neat. That way you increased the broadcast range of the EMI it was radiating. Of course you had all your components grounded and were using coax-type single ended ICs because that's all that was available if you weren't in a recording studio and using balanced!
I am sure that manufacturers adopted detachable power cords for a practical reason...so that they could easily configure their products for sale in different countries that use different configurations of electrical outlets. This opened an oportunity for the "upgrade" business that has been thoroughly exploited.

If you think that the wire which the manufacterer used is somehow inadequate, a few feet of new wire should cost only a few dollars. The new wire should be soldered in place just like the original "captive" wire. A soldered connection is always better than any plug. (Besides, the captive approach discourages "PC rolling" that could bankrupt you!) While you have the chassis open you might like to count up how many "push on" connections there are between the power cord and the transformer. The power switch, the fuse holder and the transformer itself are frequent offenders, but some designs have many more. You might consider hitting these spots with the solder while you are in there.