A ground loop is nothing more than the current has different paths to ground. This always happens, because even on one circuit there are lots of things plugged in. What you want to avoid is different electrical potentials. As long as they are all the same, or very close to the same, then no problem.
This is why often times people are able to get away with running off more than one line. You could run a separate dedicated line to every component, each with its own conditioner (or not) and have no problem as long as they all have equal ground potential. Where the hum and noise comes in is when it is different. How different? When will it be a problem? Only way of knowing, do it and find out. So these things are more good housekeeping or good practice than guarantees.
The one good thing about a dealer is you can bring the thing home and try it. Only problem, I have heard enough of these things to guarantee just about any of them will sound to you like a big improvement. It is only after going to the trouble of comparing a bunch of them that you will be able to figure out if one is better than another for the money. Do that enough times and then you are able to look at something like the Decware and go, yeah totally worth it. But you kind of have to go through it.
Look at the neverending amplifier thread to see just how endless that kind of thing can be.
Don't know what the JPS Power wire costs, or what your budget is. But I can tell you this. Look at my system. Read the details. Notice I am not recommending you use cryogenically treated wire, 240V step down, etc, etc. Why is that? Because it doesn't work?
No. It totally works. But I have learned over the years there are lots of things that are way more bang for your buck. If it was me now (and I was paying electricians and having to follow code like you are) I would use ordinary 10 gauge, Synergistic Orange outlet, and spend the rest on HFT, ECT, PHT, Orange Fuses, Townshend Pods and Podiums, F1, stuff like that.
The day you stick an Orange Fuse in your amp, or put it on Pods, or put your speakers on Podiums, or put HFT on your speakers, you will know what I'm talking about.
This is why often times people are able to get away with running off more than one line. You could run a separate dedicated line to every component, each with its own conditioner (or not) and have no problem as long as they all have equal ground potential. Where the hum and noise comes in is when it is different. How different? When will it be a problem? Only way of knowing, do it and find out. So these things are more good housekeeping or good practice than guarantees.
The one good thing about a dealer is you can bring the thing home and try it. Only problem, I have heard enough of these things to guarantee just about any of them will sound to you like a big improvement. It is only after going to the trouble of comparing a bunch of them that you will be able to figure out if one is better than another for the money. Do that enough times and then you are able to look at something like the Decware and go, yeah totally worth it. But you kind of have to go through it.
Look at the neverending amplifier thread to see just how endless that kind of thing can be.
Don't know what the JPS Power wire costs, or what your budget is. But I can tell you this. Look at my system. Read the details. Notice I am not recommending you use cryogenically treated wire, 240V step down, etc, etc. Why is that? Because it doesn't work?
No. It totally works. But I have learned over the years there are lots of things that are way more bang for your buck. If it was me now (and I was paying electricians and having to follow code like you are) I would use ordinary 10 gauge, Synergistic Orange outlet, and spend the rest on HFT, ECT, PHT, Orange Fuses, Townshend Pods and Podiums, F1, stuff like that.
The day you stick an Orange Fuse in your amp, or put it on Pods, or put your speakers on Podiums, or put HFT on your speakers, you will know what I'm talking about.