Krell Evo vs Evo-enhance

Regarding to the original question, I would say 402e is more logical way to go over 400e. 402e saves space, and there is no need to buy 2 identical cord. 402e is exactly two 400e together put in one chasis.
Compared to other brands such as Pass, Dart,...it is a different beast. Doesn't sound like pass amps, doesn't do the mistakes that pass does. However, it can't give the pure musical joy as Pass does.(class A)
Krell will give its best exactly 1h30-40m later after turn on. Needs a dedicated wall outlet.(not a buffer line, has to be dedicated) Plus a good ''powercord'' will give you sonic enjoyment at least 4 year as in my case.

As far as Mr. Colloms concerned, when he first reviewed Krell 402, I had Krell already and smiled and undestood that he couldn't realized its potential. I kept reading his reviews until 2010. He gave rave reviews what I had so far so good.(wilson sophia 2, Audio Research Ref 3, Transparent reference mm2 cables......)Even he was almost putting my setup together except my dCS Puccini-clock. Than, I found his own Hi-fi Critic forum and posted a topic named ''coincident or what?''
In mid 2010, I have decided to change my speaker and preamp and make radical difference.Replaced Wilson with Focal Utopia 3, and Audio Research with Esoteric preamp. Even changed my Transparent Ref. interconnect with PAD Ann.
Thanks god that he has not reviewed those yet......

Sonrock

Chk mbl specifications if speaker drops below to 2-3 ohms, I would say go to Krell. If my memory doesn't mess, I remember that MBL speakers are not easy loads for amps.
I may be wrong. Please chk.

cheers

Zormi

Let's suppose your given figures are correct, will my Focal Scala Utopia(8 ohm) benefit %0-10 from 400 mono?

I may go to Evo 600-900 or Evo 1 if I change to Utopia Maestro, Stella, Grand, Sasha, Maxx3, Alexadria. Than that will make sense to go Monos.
Based on past experience, 0ne Boulder 2060 is always better than two 1050's.
Btw, what about electricity?
As you said Unfortunately, it costs...
However, there is a few factors: quality of elec. will stay constant when you turn two 400 on?
Will you be getting exactly 235V(europe) 0r 110V(states)for each amp?
Is your house or flat made by audiophile friendly construction company?
Can you see what wire is hidden in wall?
I can list at least 10 more variables which may affect the performance of a power amp.
I hardly satisfy one, I wouldn't take two.
Regards

knghifi
I do have more a than boombox I guess, please post your variable/variables and share your deep, extensive knowlodge here with despirate audiogon folks.
If you don't have one, your mother's would be just fine:)
Going fishing now!!!!

Knghifi,
Game starts with the circuit box of the entire flat or house. IMO, the decisive factor is not the way how inwall lines installed, BUT, how the circuit box SUPPLIED by the MAİN line. If it is weak and designed for a standart citizen, than, problems begin.
In my case, I replaced entire network, all main lines to my flat, all the critical circuit breakers in entire residense, even short circuit breakers in my flat, and commonuse in residence.( neighbours didn't pay me anything)
Afterwards, I have decided not to depend on AC from company but logical way to re-generate for entire flat, re distubute the phase, re-organize the circuit breakers, internal lines.
I ended up with: 2 5kw in line voltage regulater-stabilizer(audiophile grade, custom made) one for setup, one for rest of the flat, Lapp Kabel ollflex cable for setup supply, 32a AHP Klang Modul circuit breaker for setup. (all circuit breakers and cables are Made in Germany)
(I would recommend Oyaide Tunami cable for internal lines but it will be costly and technicians may extra charge due it is very heavy and not easily bendable)
You may ask that does it worth? Yes it does, at least, psychological......