The tubes will be happiest if you use the tap that is equal to or lower than the lowest impedance of the speaker. So if your lowest is 4 ohms use the 4 ohm tap.
Although David Manley (rest his soul) believed that we match the primary of the tranformer to the tube’s impedance this is not true. Once again its all about the voltage and current that the tube is comfortable with. With that in mind, a reduced impedance will require more current from the tube. If the tube is already at max current minimum voltage (the correct place to be at full power) the reduced load impedance will demand too much current and cause a great increase in voltage drop across the tube and overheat it.
A 10% overcurrent may double or triple the voltage drop aross the tube increasing the dissipation by many times. Its a horrible situation. In fact the RM-9 Special addressed this problem by allowing the output tubes to go into AB2 mode thus saving the tubes. The speaker that prompted this was a Theil whose impedance dropped below 4 ohms in the treble region where loud trumpet music would just bake the tubes in a regular RM-9. The AB2 mode is also used in the RM-200 as i liked what it did.
For normal tube amplifiers it would be best to connect the amplifier to the tap that matches the lowest impedance of the speaker in the region where there is a lot of music.
Speaker manufacturers are not so honest about their impedance range and a curve is the only way to know. If they didn’t do so many tricks in the crossover we would not have this problem. The drivers are not the problem, the crossover is.
In my experience most speaker designers do not know much about electronics or care about what the amplifier may have to do.