Any serious audio geek owns a home with a stream you can dam up for your own hydro power...a small nuclear plant also works but be wary of sensitive neighbors.
New Dedicated Line - Almost No improvement
Hello,
Newbie here and electrical idiot. Just moved to a new to us house in Tampa. Before we moved in I had an electrician put in a dedicated line (has it's own breaker switch) which is 10 gauge and two Furutech GTX-D outlets - Rhodium.
When I hooked up the EMI meter in my old house, which didn't have a dedicated line, the reading was usually around 26 or so IIRC. At the new house the outlets are 89 usually and the dedicated line is usually around 82 - so not much help for the cost of the "project" and pretty noisy.
Also, when the ac /hvac is running the meter reads about 100 points higher (!) for both the regular outlets and the dedicated Furutechs. Not good.
Thoughts? Does the dedicated line need it's own breaker box?
I'm also considering a line conditioner but wanted to see what could be done here. Thanks.
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- 120 posts total
Juice is juice. As long as you get the noise off the line. Seems to me that with rechargeable batteries abundant now from puny right up to car size, the way to go is to use battery power. Choose battery(ies) suitably rated to power your components, charge them in system downtime and disconnect charging while listening. A car-size battery easily has the capacity and punch to run my Krell KRs200s. Eureka. All noise gone, no need for dedicated power lines, fancy power conditioners $15,000 power cords. Why not? |
I see people recommending adding 2 dedicated lines, one for amp and one for evrything else. If you do that, there is one more thing you can do that gives you opportunity. Your home has 2 legs of 120V power, generally one red and one black. (Sometimes electricians aren't careful and they can get mixed up, since they are identical wrt 120V power). But if you run one leg off of red and one off black, then you have 240V between them for running a european amp. the great thing about that is that at 240V, the current is half that it would be at 120V for the same power. Thus your wire is effectively larger. What I did was just run 240V power to my audio wall. I pulled 120V off the red leg for one set of 3 hospital grade outlets and 120V off the black leg for the other set of outlets. I took the red and black to make a 240V outlet for my european amp (an Ayon). Those of you who understand electrical (not many on this forum) may be asking yourself what about the neutral? Indeed the neutral wire is shared between both legs but I don't find that to be a problem. If the shared neutral concerns you then run 10-4 plus g instead of 10-3 and you can have seperate neutrals. Jerry |
@clearthinker You must be big on gedanken experiments--consistent with your name. I'm pretty sure you haven't implemented what you suggest. If you have, I'd love to hear how you solved the many problems you would have to overcome. --Jerry
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- 120 posts total