New Maplenoll Ariadne owner needing advice

Know When To ...

Ok, I've had it. 97% isn't good enought for me on the painting. I contacted Robb @ Fine Finishes , 3300 Emmorton Rd, Abingdon, MD, 21009 ,P/N 443-484-2039 and he has accepted the job. All TT painting is in his hands. Robb is a one-of-a-kind-person , a finisher to perfection. I believe he is a real "go-to guy" for plinths and such. More on that and such more later.

Who's On Our Side ?

A couple of posts ago I mentioned I broke the air barb to the tone-arm manifold and that I was going to contact McMaster-Carr for a replacement. That's what I did only to receive the wrong part. I contacted MC and was assured they could assist . The parts were returned for credit and upon MC's instructions I enclosd the broken part for replacement. Nearly 2 weeks goes by no phone calls , no emails , no nutt'in. So I recalled them , spoke to a customer rep who later recalled me. Despite all the assurances of assistence none was forthcomning. Instead, I get a very calm professional voice telling me McMaster-Carr "eye-balled" the part , the tech could not recall anything like it in stock, dumping the part back to me no explanation via snail mail. Despite all the bull crap about lending a helping hand to the comsumer all I got was a polite foot up my a--. The McMaster-Carr rep suggested that I go back to square one look into their online parts and locate it myself ! And with a sweet kiss-off McMaster-Carr just brushed me aside. Something to remember for future reference. McMaster-Carr assured me of help and then kicked me in the arse. For sure in the world of big business I'm a nobody but I represent a lot of regular folks that from time to time need a tad of help. Remember my experience the next time you hear of a buy-out of another US company. Most likely arrogance started the demise, forgetting the "little guy" is the backbone of business. Enought for now. My search for that part continues...

Award of Merit : McMaster-Carr returned my broken part with a one line hand written notice "returned" bla, bla. Thanks for ALL your help. You know how to keep da US Of A on Top! Next UP,

"Gong On Down the Line" ..... The Return of Ari :

As I attempt to source an air barb, Robb of Fine Finishes telephoned . He said he's removing all(ie, my crappy)spray paint(far too soft a finish in his opinion) and is duplicating the color palette in lacquer. Robb will give the entire project a profession touch. Robb is to apply lacquer via a spray booth, to be followed by coats of clear coat that is to be hand-buffed between coats . The platter is to be finished in a gloss black, all other top parts in mauve(ish) color paint . The Counterweight Arm, Bearing Spindel and Tone-Arm are to stay anodized black ; the VTA adjust & "L" bracket to the counterweight in mauve(ish) , the VTA adjust crew in stainless: A custom made part that allows more refinement to adjusting the VTA. All unused openings on the table top & sides are to be filled with curved-top red-oak plugs : The off-sided triangle cut-out , now filled filled with Roma , once housed the Hurst motor. That opening is to be coverered with red-oak trim to be attached using small brass screws set into the Roma underneath. Counterweights are to be solid brass (when sourced).

The TT Motor is to sit on a red-oak platform that affixes off-angle to Ari's right front corner. The platform looks like an inverted "Z" is attached via extending the red-oak plank of the "Z" that covers the existing right front opening the adjusting spike once used. Single sided 3M absorber tape affixed to the oak acts as a interface between the "Z" and the table side to dampened any platform vibes. The whole sub-unit is affixed via a brass bolt & washer, thru a hole drilled into the "Z" that will axcess to re-use the adjuster hole to affix the sub-unit to the Ari's plinth.

All orgininal screws & supports are to be reused. A toothpick is to apply Permatex , 83H , # 80057, Super "300", gasket sealant as a dampner to threaded parts. Far more effective that super-glue and far less hassel when time to be removed. Just a dab will do ya.

Dare I mention this ? I might consider a lacquer clear mixed with ? color sprayed to be over the white plastic plinth(maybe).

I will begin to dampen some interfaces where ,in my opinion, un- wanted vibration(s)could/do occurr. Currently, I am testing materals. Should any reader have auditioned/owned a Beard Amp than you recall that most unique of audio voicing. Partly, that signature audio palette is the result of paper dampters placed on/under certian boards to dampen micro-vibrations. That practice is not lost on me and I will attempt to duplicate that idea via the table's tone/adjust as to some parts/places I choose for that select application.

So far, besides paint, everything I have done can be reversed ,as in removed, without damage to the table.

More areas to be addressed. The RCA jack opening is no longer in use now that I now run 32 Ga. Cardas TT wire from the phono pins to the Pre-Amp (27"). This opening is to be covered/shielded via stainless steel tape ,as will be the back of the RCA/Terminal plate to deter RFI. The roof of the RCA opening has already been dampened with Roma. While I await Pidepiper's assistance , several mods for the stock 7" tone-arm. Lots mo' later.

RCA/Terminal Cover : The phono/tone-arm harness stretches from the phono clips to the RCA's that plug into the Pre-Amp(27").

Self-adhesive felt pads were holed & afixed over soft rubber grommets that were inserted into the openings that the RCA's occupied in the plastic cover. The phono-wires travel thru that opening encased in a carbon fiber jacket. I feel the felt pads act to "absorb" micro vibrations that may run from the P/A back to the tone-arm,: E Lumley's observations on electrical eddies traveling from the pump into the 'Noll may also apply here. Self-adhesive S/S shielding was lined into the back-space to block RFI.

I must take some pic's before re-assembly to doctument all I have been describing.

would love to see those pics. its going to be a different machine!