New streamer


I recently opened a discussion on upgrading my DAC. I started at the beginning of that discussion, that I was a vinyl guy, but with my purchase of the Chord Qutest, I realized that digital music can be outstanding and want to now upgrade my Node.

That will provide 2 benefits: Maximizing my current systems digital, and allow me to move the Node & Schiit Modi Multibit 2 to the family room, a small HT setup with a Yamaha AVR driving a Goldenear soundbar. Streaming there is currently MusicCast using the AVR DAC.  The improvement there should be very nice. 

My 2 channel equipment is as follows: 

Rogue RP-1 w/ NOS Brimar’s, LSA Warp 1, KEF R11’s, Rhythmic F12SE, Pro-ject 1Xpression w/Hana ML, Rega Aria, Bluesound Node w/Qubuz, Marantz CD6007, Chord Qutest. Good to very good power, speaker, interconnect cables.  
My weakest link (I believe) is now my Node. 
I don’t want or need amplification or volume control, ripping storage, nor an internal DAC. Sound signature should be neutral. 
My budget is $2,500, but willing to spend less. My current favorites are:

Lumin U2 mini. Very well reviewed, beautiful, perfect form factor, good app & controllable via my Harmony One remote. It is currently my #1 choice.

Auralic Aris. If new, the G1.1, if used G2.0 or 2.1. Very well reviewed, good app, OK form factor, but not controllable via harmony.  
Naim ND5 XS2. Considered the best high end streamer by What Hi Fi  Would need to buy used to stay close to budget.

EverSolo DMP-A6. Included based upon reviews, but may not be a serious contender. 
HiFi Rose RS250A. The streamer EverSolo seemed to copy  

Aurender. Don’t think they have anything within my budget, but included for discussion.

 LPS upgrade for Node. Included because I know it will come up. Plan to reuse my node downstairs, so out. Would prefer LPS upgrade for one of the above.  

Please let me know your thoughts and/or recommendations. Thanks!

 

 

128x128signaforce

I have two dedicated lines to my stereo. One feeds the amps and one the front end via the AQ Niagara 5000. I just double checked. I have the two breakers on the same leg. I used to have them on separate legs to "balance" the power. But as someone on these threads pointed out, it might be better if both breakers are on the same phase. (The USA has two phases 180 degrees apart, 240 Volts or 120 Volts per phase or leg.) I put the white ground wires adjacent on the ground buss and the safety ground wires adjacent on that safety ground buss. No ground loops, no noise. I used AQ outlets in the wall. Those buggers won’t let go of a plug. I am a licensed Professional Engineer. (In case anyone was concerned that I do my own electrical work. I do plumbing too...)

I have had dedicated lines for my stereo since the late 1980s. 

@mclinnguy

Interesting, I never knew about that. So once those are installed one wouldn’t need to turn up the volume in order to flatten out the curve, as typically humans have to in order to increase lower frequencies to the same level as midrange. Thus the invention of the loudness control (Mcintosh). So you enjoy your hifi at lower volumes than those without hearing aids.

interesting observation. Not sure. I have only not had loudness control for the last 6 weeks with the purchase of my Rogue. Have been listening at lower volume since its install, but I chalked that up to the quality of sound. I do remember thinking recently, sounds great at low volume… why did I ever need loudness control…

I would think they had the same phenomenon as the human ear, but if so, at what volume would they be flat? My guess is at a lower volume than the human ear. 

I would think it is hard to determine when it is flat, if it ever is, as testing us to see where that might occur damages the test subjects ears, as it is north of 120db. Point is the louder the music the flatter the curve, and the more perception that bass is louder- graph below at the link provided bottom shows this:

Interpretation: looking at the bottom line, at 0 db a 1000 hz signal is barely perceptible to the (normal) human ear, but at 80hz that would need to increase to 40db for it to "sound" just as loud, and a low bass signal of 40 hz would need to be output at 60db to be perceived to be as loud.

equal loudness contour

 

The louder the flatter the curve becomes, and if one listens at 100db the line is reasonably flat- which makes music sound better, but more than 15 minutes of this (per week) and there is risk of hearing loss.

Quick post on Aurender warranty transfer. While the warranty does transfer, unless the purchaser of the used Aurender can obtain the original sales receipt, the warranty start date is the date of manufacture. Per Aurender support:

The warranty for the N150 is valid for two years from the initial purchase date or the date of manufacture. To ensure that the warranty is properly transferred to you, it would be beneficial if you could obtain a copy of the original purchase receipt from The Music Room. This will help in verifying the remaining warranty period.

So if you are selling and advertising a transferable warranty, you would need to provide a copy of your original receipt to the buyer. 

@signaforce There appears to be conflicting info coming from Aurender. I was considering a used N150 from a fellow audiogoner. I wrote Aurender and they wrote back and told me it is not transferable. If your version is the correct version, thanks for clarifying.

The following is the info from Aurender from 6 days ago:

You are correct that we offer a full 2-year manufacturer’s warranty for all Aurender products. The warranty is non-transferrable. However, all Aurender owners get free remote support assistance, regardless if they purchased the product new or used, from an authorized dealer or from a friend. This is found inside our Conductor app under: settings/help/send remote support email.