I've been using OREI Da34 Digital to Analog converter. Works just fine. Paid around $50. Problem solved. Bill.
New TV: what to do with TOSLINK optical output
Dumb questions incoming: I got a new TV that only has optical out, but I got no optical input on my Cambridge Audio 640A; Do I need a newer receiver or a dedicated DAC to convert the optical out to regular RCA? I see even the new CA receiver (851a) doesn’t have optical input.
Or should I swap to something like the hegel h90 or CA CXA80 with tons of optical inputs?
Or should I swap to something like the hegel h90 or CA CXA80 with tons of optical inputs?
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An excellent little DAC for this purpose is the FiiO D03K. Available on many websites for $20. Something to check before purchasing this DAC, The TV's optical out must be set to PCM. I have encountered a TV that this was not possible, so then you will need to use the OREI DAC mentioned above. Also, does the TV have a mini-jack for headphones? If so, it is possible that this could be used without the need for a DAC. What is the model number of the TV? |
Your Cambridge 640A is a stereo analog integrated amp and has no DAC that’s the reason why it doesn’t have any optical digital input or any other digital inputs. Stereo analog integrated amps such as your Cambridge 640A only have analog audio inputs. You will need to get a stereo integrated amp that has built-in DAC thus have digital audio inputs. Assuming that all your AV source devices have HDMI outs, if that’s the case and I imagine nowadays that all AV source devices would have HDMI outs, then you should consider getting the Cambridge AV receiver either the CXR120 or the CXR200. Cambridge Audio makes very good sounding av receivers and are priced reasonably. Then you can connect all your AV source devices using HDMI cables to the HDMI inputs on the Cambridge AV receiver. And you can use a single HDMI cable to connect the Cambridge AV receiver to your TV for video and OSD only. All AV receivers these days have at least one if not two HDMI output to connect to your tv display or a projector for video and OSD only. This would be the best way to set up. |
EBay. You can get a toslink and spdif to rca single ended output converter for about $8 shipped. If you are happy with your amp no need to waste money. This little gizmo just needs a usb power source, just like a phone charger as it will come with a generic usb cable. This will then convert your toslink to stereo rca which you just plug into back of your amp. Been using one myself in the spare bedroom for same purpose for at least 3 years. Problem solved. |
Thanks for the input everyone, really appreciate it. @tls49 its this tv https://www.amazon.com/LG-Electronics-OLED55C8PUA-55-Inch-Ultra/dp/B079TSV11D?psc=1&Subscription... I found this guide for audio-out, looks like it is supported okay: https://www.lg.com/hk_en/support/product-help/CT20136005-1437129397190-others @caphill, thanks for your lengthy reply! I have been avoiding HDMI switching since they are more expensive, I only have 2 speakers and only a small number of inputs to the tv (ps4 & laptop) . Is it better to use an AVR instead of taking the audio out of the tv? With an AVR, what happens to OTA signal audio? A few votes for a small toslink to rca converter, seems like the easiest/cheapest way forward until I’m ready to upgrade the amp. I’ll start the coin jar for it now... |
@mrgreenfur If you’re only doing stereo then get a stereo integrated amp that has built-in DAC therefore will have various digital audio inputs such as USB, spdif (coax digital audio) & optical digital (Toslink). The Hegel that you mentioned earlier will be a good option as long as it has DAC and thus will have various digital audio inputs. The Cambridge Audio also makes great affordable stereo integrated amps some models are analog only and have no DAC some models have built-in DAC so will have digital audio inputs. Rotel, NAD, Musical Fidelity also make affordable great sounding stereo integrated amps with built-in DAC so therefore will have various digital audio inputs. And you can connect your PS4 using spdif (coax digital audio) cable or optical digital audio cable to one of these stereo integrated amps and let the DAC in one of these integrated amps do the digital-to-analog conversion. You can connect your laptop using a USB cable to the PC USB DAC input port on the integrated amp. Stereo integrated amps will sound better than AV receivers for stereo music playbacks. |
mrgreenfur Yes, looking at the manual from your link, the default setting will be "auto". As I said previously, that will need to be set to PCM. Then the FiiO D03K DAC that I recommended will work. It comes complete with power supply for the $20. https://www.amazon.com/D03K-Digital-Analog-Audio-Converter/dp/B009346RSS Most of the budget DAC's like this look and feel cheap, but not the FiiO D03K, it actually has a quality metal case and feels solid. |
I use this excellent Toslink cable: https://btpa.com/TOSLINK-XXX.html to go from my smart TV to this reclocker (which lowers jitter for dolby digital as well as PCM): https://ifi-audio.com/products/spdif-ipurifier/ Then this low-jitter signal is sent using my excellent $275 BNC-BNC coax cable with adapters to my SS processor. It is important to have a 4 foot cable to reduce jitter from the cable. Incredible surround-sound for movies. You could also cable to a PCM DAC, but I would use a Synchro-Mesh reclocker instead of the iPurifier if you only need PCM playback. Lower jitter. Steve N. Empirical Audio |
Those really cheap $8 toslink to single-ended RCA convertors that uberwaltz is showing are basically really cheap garbage DACs. mrgreenfur can certainly try one to see if the audio is acceptable, but it is definitely not going to be anywhere as good as a separate DAC or even a new receiver with toslink/HDMI inputs. It's something you can try "for the heck of it". If sound is bad, you can always upgrade to something else. The FiiO D3 may be better than the $8 solution, but you still can only put so much into a piece of equipment for a $20 retail. Another thing. I know caphill like to present the idea of using an "all HDMI" receiver solution. Keep in minds that audio transported through HDMI will never be as good as audio transported through digital COAX or even toslink. It's definitely a convenience thing, but I would suggest getting a receiver that has a toslink input and find a really good glass fiber toslink cable (lifatec / Wire World / etc.). |
I never said that HDMI would be best connection for audio only but it is the only digital connection that can transmit those lossless surround sound formats eg DTS-HD MA & Dolby True-HD, Dolby Atmos to the fullest resolution bandwiths for his AV sources from his Sony PS4. This setup is mainly for his AV sources, not strictly for two-channel listenings. I’m also aware that HDMI isn’t the best digital connection for two-channel audio only source. Everybody knows that. The reason I recommended the Cambridge Audio receivers to the OP cause Cambridge makes great sounding av receivers at affordable prices points. The CXR120 is only $1200 and the CXR200 is only $2k but they sounded very good, better than much more expensive Japanese AV receivers that are loaded with features bells & whistles. With this Cambridge receiver the OP can also connect using other digital connections such as USB, spdif (coax digital) & Toslink (optical digital) for his audio only two-channel music materials and use HDMI for his AV sources from his PS4. |
I would have agreed that at $8 the converter would be garbage but maybe I got a good one as I was frankly surprised just how good it managed to sound taking the tv toslink fed into a small receiver. And it fixed an issue on the cheap and was definitely worth an $8 experiment. Of course I am not touting it as the last word in fidelity but it is worth considering. |