No bass with new turntable?

Gosh terry9, "unstable" was just a tip of the iceberg. I'd love to see your entire system. It sounds like you are, how should I say, deep into it. I fully agree with your assessment of Bryston. I don't believe I've owned anything whatsoever for 17 years, much less an electronic component. 2 years ago, which is 15 years after buying the unit, sent it in for a little check up, Bryston replaced the entire front faceplate and knobs gratis because a little paint was coming off the name, the guy says that wasn't suppose to happen. Exemplary product. In fact I'm having a hard time parting with it and now planning a completely un-needed second system for somewhere in the house based around the old Bryston. Although in my heart I really wanted a second "fantasy" system to be pure tubes, just for contrast. Interesting you've went to Class A, as I see many manufacturers going to Class D, like a Bel Canto, Peachtree, Wyred, etc. 
I couldn't decide so I went with a hybrid. 

Dkarmeli, I suppose price is relevant. The Esprit DC is no VPI Scout by any means, but it's not a Crosley either. It fits in with my system and budget, and I can at least upgrade the cart down the line. I'm not sure what type of bass a much higher priced unit would give. I'm not a bass head or looking for exaggerated bass, I just want to hear what's supposed to be there, naturally. I've went to considerable length and cost to have natural bass in my system.

Wetfeet, ime natural bass is critical also difficult to realize when only so few components are natural to begin with, so I applaud you in your quest. I find some vintage tts and arms have that natural quality while most modern ones I've heard/owned, including some big ticket table, are anything but natural.

david

Wetfeet, I like Class A. Profligate use of power, but commensurately clean sound. With ESL's you really hear it.

[Heresy alert] By the way, my electronics are all solid state, full complementary designs. The electronics may not sound the best, but the system does. That is because the amps can be designed so that they cannot overdrive the speakers into protection - and that means that performance robbing protection circuits are necessary, and if present, can be removed with impunity.

Which explains the paradox: even if the amps are not the absolute best, the system as a whole has been optimized.

As I figured and many did, "listen for ...hours" would not help the main issue. 
The low price tag perhaps made manufacturer(or dealer) be negligent to details and quality of assembly and setup.
If you have tiny pliers something like in Leatherman pocket tool I'd carefully remove all cartridge clips and crimp them slightly more to make sure that they provide nice and tight connection to the cartridge pins. Be super careful not to rip them off the headshell and always use pliers when taking off and fitting back on. I'd also check carefully alignment and properly set-up VTF with tools to check and fix manufacturer or dealer negligent setup. If you go to turntablebasics.com, you'll be able to find basic tools to properly align cartridge and tracking weight. With new wires I'd work on research first. I don't know any market for outboard interconnects with thin gauge for turntable. Basically you'd want the same thickness of wires as going out from your arm on the interconnects. You'd also want minimal per-unit capacitance of wire, because for the MM cartridge it's crucial and not so for MC. For your reference, find out the electrical parameters of the stock interconnects you're using from manufacturer.
 Years back they used to be available in conventional electronic stores with ground wire attached, now I've seen some on internet (needledoctor) at price tag 4x higher than your whole analogue setup. If you don't want to tense your wallet and save a lot without loosing performance of your system, I use http://www.gepco.com/products/proav_cable/analog_audio/singdual_xband_F.htm. This cable is easy to fit safely onto the RCA jacks and provides low-to-no noise signal transfer with great dynamics. I'm sure that it will outperform your stock interconnects if properly terminated. For best results use http://www.parts-express.com/neutrik-nf2c-b-2-profi-professional-rca-plug-pair--092-114 Neutrik Pro-Fi connectors that are very easy to terminate and lockable.

Wetfeet, I like Class A. Profligate use of power, but commensurately clean sound. With ESL's you really hear it.

[Heresy alert] By the way, my electronics are all solid state, full complementary designs. The electronics may not sound the best, but the system does. That is because the amps can be designed so that they cannot overdrive the speakers into protection - and that means that performance robbing protection circuits are necessary, and if present, can be removed with impunity.

Which explains the paradox: even if the amps are not the absolute best, the system as a whole has been optimized. 

Very interesting and ambitious quest terry9, as it would seem darn near impossible to improve upon the characteristics of the Bryston. That's quite an accomplishment, would love to hear your system and compare the sonic qualities to my (now) Class D/tube hybrid.