Nude Turntable Project

Thanks, Aigenga.

I have EAR Isodamp (a 3m product) sheets on the way and I'll be following your lead.

I know about those motor washers because one of them evidently 'escaped' and ended up stuck to the rotor, thus causing one of the problems with my turntable. I'm game to try these steel/neoprene washers. Where does one get these things?

Regarding the bearing: how did you support the table while accessing the bearing? My platter was riding low so I had to adjust that big screw, but I had a devil of a time handling the turntable with screwdriver in hand. I can't imagine trying to clean the bearing and changing the oil w/o an extra pair of hands.

Yes Banquo....it does indeed look my idea and I'm pleased someone did it.
I need to get around to doing something myself....but my friendly metal-shop man has retired and I'm a bit loathe to 'tender' out the fabrication to some unknown operators?

By the looks of things.....there appears to be a growing 'band' of 'nuded' Victor TT owners out there?
It must sound good for this scale of 'adoption' :-)

When you have time.....I would be interested to hear your thoughts on the differences between the TT-101 and the Technics SP10/II?
Of course.....if the music is great.....you may not want to waste your time writing instead of listening?
Enjoy.

Dear Banquo363/Halcro: That's exactly what I did several years ago with my Denon's, I posted here and in the past in other threads.

Difference was that I used natural marble and natural onyx stones ( beautiful look for say the least. ) all that supported for the AT 616 pneumatic footers. I still have those stone bases but are so big that I have no space to use it again with my Victor 71/Denon 80/75. Yes, it works fine.

When I have some time I will test it again against the nude one in real time.

Regards and enjoy the music,
R.

Dear Aigenga, Your listening is the final arbiter of whether any change is a good one, but I would only observe that by using a "spongy" washer where once was a solid washer, you have to some degree decoupled the motor from the rest of the chassis elements. This obviously can be a good thing. But it can also be a bad thing, because now the motor/bearing/platter as a unit are more free to move when the motor is called upon to increase torque in response to drag on the platter. Remember Newton's Laws of Motion: every action has an equal and opposite reaction. When the motor urges the platter in the clockwise direction, the motor itself has a tendency to move counter-clockwise. Plus, the Victor engineers had the option to anchor the motor assembly in any feasible way, and they chose what they chose. Just a thought.
Irrelevant if you are pleased with your modification.

Banquo, to handle the tt I remove the platter and turn it upside down on a large flat bowl that is covered with a dish towel. The washers are about 5/8" in diameter and 3/32" thick. They will raise your platter a tad by raising the entire motor. That gives you more leeway as to how tight that bearing thrust plate screw must be. Not tightening it too much is rather critical for clearance as well as proper alignment of the motor components.

Lewm, the 1/16" neoprene bonded to 1/32" steel do not make for a spongy mount especially if they are torqued down. Your point is quite valid but my ears tell me this is better. Psychoacoustics no doubt but c'est la vie. Anyway the washers that JVC used, being two metals and thin are a pain in the ass. As Banquo found out (and I did too) they tend to get lost in the machine.

Gary