Passive preamp

MrD, and Neko both said it well.  A major problem, which I learned the hard way is: Impedance Mismatches between passive pres and amp

I loved everything about the looks and function of a Hattor passive, alas, it was a mismatch for the amp I had at the time. I wish I could have kept it, but the cost to add a buffer was prohibitive, AND the sound of Buffers is a whole nother level of discussion.

Nord offers several Buffer options for their designs

@georgehifi
How does one avoid impedance mismatches?

This is very important to me as I am putting together a used system from scratch starting with Dali Euphonia MS4 speakers. Thinking about the Classe CA-M600/CT-M600 monoblock amplifier. Would love 3 recommendations for passive tube preamps in the $1k, $2k, & $3k price ranges (used of course).

Thanks,
Zeus

How does one avoid impedance mismatches?

Using the accepted impedance matching ratio of 1:10 or higher.
A 10khom series/shunt passive preamp is the best most versatile value to go for as it has:
10kohm input impedance
2.5kohm max output impedance.

The source (dac ect) should have an output impedance
10 x lower than the input of 10kohm passive pre (which most are) so sources with 1kohm or lower output impedance are a match.

The power amp/s should have an input impedance 10 x higher than the output impedance of the passive pre 2.5kohm (which most are) so amps that are 25kohm or higher are a match.

The above is good for "nearly" 100% of systems out there

Good practice also is to use low capacitance interconnects (100pf per ft or lower), which most good quality ones are.

Tube sources should be questioned as they have output coupling caps that "may" not be large enough value, and easy fix though.

So your Classe with 27kohm input will be fine for a 10kohm passive preamp like mine.
https://forum.audiogon.com/discussions/lightspeed-attenuator-best-preamp-ever

Cheers George

I have a passive that I ran in my system for a long time and really enjoy it. However right now I am enjoying the distortion that a tube  pre has to offer. If you have the gain,a passive is the next best thing to straight wire. 

If you have the gain,a passive is the next best thing to straight wire.

Hit the nail on the head, it’s the most transparent/dynamic/uncolored way of getting the sources signal to the poweramp/s

Quote from Nelson Pass

Nelson Pass,

We’ve got lots of gain in our electronics. More gain than some of us need or want. At least 10 db more.

Think of it this way: If you are running your volume control down around 9 o’clock, you are actually throwing away signal level so that a subsequent gain stage can make it back up.

Routinely DIYers opt to make themselves a “passive preamp” - just an input selector and a volume control.

What could be better? Hardly any noise or distortion added by these simple passive parts. No feedback, no worrying about what type of capacitors – just musical perfection.

And yet there are guys out there who don’t care for the result. “It sucks the life out of the music”, is a commonly heard refrain (really - I’m being serious here!). Maybe they are reacting psychologically to the need to turn the volume control up compared to an active preamp.

Cheers George