Status Update--
I have all of the power tube coupling caps in, which consist of 4 .68uF and 4 .1 uF Clarity CMR caps. I have yet to touch the two .22uF caps near the gain/phase section of the circuit--arguably those could do more to signal preservation (I'm waiting on VCap CuTFs to arrive for that section).
I also replaced the four resistors linked to the larger .68uF coupling caps with Kiwame 5watts, .39kohm and .36kohm.
I'll spare you the audiophile shopworn terms, and we are only 8 hours into break in.
The new caps make things sound more relaxed and less tense. I don't mean relaxed in the sense of more laid back, but rather less uptight. I know this amplifier, very, very well. With the cap swap, on Johnny Hartman's "I Just Dropped by to Say Hello," things don't sound as intense. There's a bit of strain in those old caps (Suntan, brand anyone?).
The Clarity's are clearly more detailed and it's easier to pick out the space around instruments and voices. Piano sounds like the recording was voiced better--mics placed more correctly--when it's the same recording.
The originals had more a feeling like we were driving at breakneck speeds and while we never drove off the guardrails, a sense that we could was there. That made the amp exciting, and even though it was pretty darn smooth, I'm now seeing where it wasn't.
Here's a summation--
Old/Suntan Caps (<$1 ea) and Bargain Resistors (~pennies):
New Clarity CMRs (~$225 upgrade) + 4 Kiwame Resistors on the Coupling Caps:
From a subjective estimation perspective, I think this makes things sound 5-10% better and break-in has just begun.
Notes for DIYers or Techs:
Holy cow--I'd never desoldered lead free solder or at least like this. I had my Hakko up to 890 degrees and there were times I couldn't melt the stuff. I obviously used audio-dork solder (Cardas Eutectitc solder), which is way easier to work with and looks great.
I actually had to carefully drill out some of the through holes on the PCB (not my first choice), as whatever is in the solder used by Wyred4Sound in construction is insane.
There is virtually no room on the board to install these caps. I was sensitive to size when selecting. There are way larger options. After break in, I'll be adding silicone to adhere the caps down, and I may add some bracing to hold them. Honestly though, they are so snugly fitted that they aren't moving now.
This was a tough surgery for me. I'm no hack, but I'm no pro either. I've built one point to point EL34 amp, 3 kits, and done plenty of mods in the last 5 years. This required a bit more patience.
Carver could easily draw the board bigger as there's room in the chassis for this, which would accommodate bigger parts. He has massive real estate on the board for the big resistors but virtually none to upgrade those Suntan caps.
Now, I cannot wait to do the VCaps and get through equipment break in and subjective break in.
PS. Voltages measured better with the new caps too--for the objectives out there! There were spots where it looked like some DC was slipping through a cap on its output. Not much, but it was there. None with the Clarity Caps.
Many more hours of listening to go though. I'm happy.
I have all of the power tube coupling caps in, which consist of 4 .68uF and 4 .1 uF Clarity CMR caps. I have yet to touch the two .22uF caps near the gain/phase section of the circuit--arguably those could do more to signal preservation (I'm waiting on VCap CuTFs to arrive for that section).
I also replaced the four resistors linked to the larger .68uF coupling caps with Kiwame 5watts, .39kohm and .36kohm.
I'll spare you the audiophile shopworn terms, and we are only 8 hours into break in.
The new caps make things sound more relaxed and less tense. I don't mean relaxed in the sense of more laid back, but rather less uptight. I know this amplifier, very, very well. With the cap swap, on Johnny Hartman's "I Just Dropped by to Say Hello," things don't sound as intense. There's a bit of strain in those old caps (Suntan, brand anyone?).
The Clarity's are clearly more detailed and it's easier to pick out the space around instruments and voices. Piano sounds like the recording was voiced better--mics placed more correctly--when it's the same recording.
The originals had more a feeling like we were driving at breakneck speeds and while we never drove off the guardrails, a sense that we could was there. That made the amp exciting, and even though it was pretty darn smooth, I'm now seeing where it wasn't.
Here's a summation--
Old/Suntan Caps (<$1 ea) and Bargain Resistors (~pennies):
- Fun, exhilarating sound
- Big soundstage
- Powerful, fast
- Slight electronic hash on the top end and bass could be a touch more defined.
- Overall, pretty nice gestalt.
New Clarity CMRs (~$225 upgrade) + 4 Kiwame Resistors on the Coupling Caps:
- Presentation seems at ease with more mature stature.
- Things are relaxed--less uptight--but still dynamic.
- Detail is improved.
- Gone is the slight hash and tizzy sounds that can occur on the upper mids and highs.
- Overall, things sound more elegant. There's no loss in dynamics and power, while the sound of space around things makes things more seductive.
From a subjective estimation perspective, I think this makes things sound 5-10% better and break-in has just begun.
Notes for DIYers or Techs:
Holy cow--I'd never desoldered lead free solder or at least like this. I had my Hakko up to 890 degrees and there were times I couldn't melt the stuff. I obviously used audio-dork solder (Cardas Eutectitc solder), which is way easier to work with and looks great.
I actually had to carefully drill out some of the through holes on the PCB (not my first choice), as whatever is in the solder used by Wyred4Sound in construction is insane.
There is virtually no room on the board to install these caps. I was sensitive to size when selecting. There are way larger options. After break in, I'll be adding silicone to adhere the caps down, and I may add some bracing to hold them. Honestly though, they are so snugly fitted that they aren't moving now.
This was a tough surgery for me. I'm no hack, but I'm no pro either. I've built one point to point EL34 amp, 3 kits, and done plenty of mods in the last 5 years. This required a bit more patience.
Carver could easily draw the board bigger as there's room in the chassis for this, which would accommodate bigger parts. He has massive real estate on the board for the big resistors but virtually none to upgrade those Suntan caps.
Now, I cannot wait to do the VCaps and get through equipment break in and subjective break in.
PS. Voltages measured better with the new caps too--for the objectives out there! There were spots where it looked like some DC was slipping through a cap on its output. Not much, but it was there. None with the Clarity Caps.
Many more hours of listening to go though. I'm happy.