Try o-rings around your 301 platters, you may be very surprised!
http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/fr.pl?eanlg&1230934215&openflup&17&4#17
http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/fr.pl?eanlg&1230934215&openflup&17&4#17
Platter Upgrade for Garrard 301
I am toying with the idea of upgrading my analog system to the next level up from my VPI scout. I've heard alot of talk about great performance from a Garrard 301 coupled with a upgraded plinth that I could buy from various sources, such as Oswald Mill Audio or Shindo, among others. However, I rarely hear about other upgrades for the Garrard. Isn't the platter a key component that should be a contender for an upgrade? I know Shindo makes such a platter, but they seem to be ultra expensive. There must be a less expensive alternative? Also, what other upgrades should I consider to a Garrard? Thanks, Mark
- ...
- 59 posts total
Hello everybody, did you know there is a pictured report on the setup Hifidaddy describes? http://www.theaudioeagle.com/columns/schall_rauch_2_oct_2008.html The approach to use a simple layer of wood is definetly a good approach to support the Garrad's strengths like slam and dynamics. See the article "DIYing a time machine" on Analog dept. That was pretty much what I used before I used the OMA slate plinth, which added much more refinement and spatial exactness to my setup, but luckily the slam and dynamics were preserved. Come and visit me. The setup Hifidaddy used was at least half of my slate plinth to allow a proper setup of his 301 in a multiplex board. To prevent motor and mechanical components from touching ground. The CLD was some wine gum animals from the catering table ;-) Actually worked, I love audio meetings. To me the differences were very little, the speakers at the festival were not very revealing. I could not draw any conclusion of any setup sounding clearly better than another. The Kokomo bearing gets a lot of good comments, so it might be worth a try. There is also a cheap imitation around which I had for a test. Can't remember the name or maker. It is a fixed ceramic ball on a stainless? steel platform. I mounted it and the sound was totally destroyed. The difference of the bearing is much bigger than I thought. Though in my case the version I had here into the negative side. Nice subject for a next audio fest; main bearing mods. Just change one parameter at a time to find out about the differences. -- Jloveys is asking about differences in the idler wheel decks. I have these three, 301, 124, L75 as well, here are my 2 cents: 301: best sound overall. Dynamic by nature and astonishingly exact and precise, yet not clinical if set up properly. L75: the main bearing and platter, idler and motor combo are definetly underrated. You need to buy a couple bfore you finde one unrestored with intact main bearing AND good condtion idler wheel. then a complete rebuild is necessary to achive a top result, getting rid of anything but platter motor, main bearing idler wheel. Mounted on a new top plate with non rattling main bearing and good idler wheel it gives a quietest idler wheel I am aware of. (Stetoscope listeng on the plinth) check lencolovers.com for more info. 124: The most complex and sophisicted of the three designs, yet the noisiest. All comments are 100% subjective and certainly depend on the condition after restoration. My 124 is fully restored and the bearings are all fine, but it has for example still the old belt. We are talking of moving mechanical bits and pieces that are doing their job for 40 to 60 years. Just look at cars that old. -- Platter 301: the mat is again a thing which changes a lot in the sound. Check a Vileda synthetic cloth, cleaning tissue which replaced the real leather pieces to clean windows. Amazing record deck mat material and cheap enough to try. Best Thomas |
- 59 posts total