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Power Cable from wall to my conditioner?

Hello, I have dedicated house lines and PS Audio receptacles for my stereo system.  I use an Isotek Aquarius conditioner that came with Isotek's entry level power cord.  I would like to find a better power cord to serve my conditioner but something that won't break the budget. I want a cord that will not restrict electrical flow and deliver all the open power it can to my Isotek which, in turn, serves my entire system.  My components are:
Old Wadia 581(rarely use anymore)
deHavilland Ultraverve preamp
Bryston 14BSST power amp
Bluesound node 2i feeding a Chord Qutest DAC
Purist anniversary bi-wired cables feeding B&W 802 diamond speakers
The tubed deHavilland serves to "warm up" and give air to my systems overall sound (this is the sound I like).  I wonder, do I want a copper configured power cord for the Isotek, or a copper-silver or something else?  Any ideas.  I understand that many of you may think "you just have to listen and go from there"...of course that is the bottom line.  But my thinking is maybe some of you might have strong feelings about which way to go and could help narrow the search?  Thank you, Jim
pfeiffer
dtximages
365 posts
 
@Kingbarbuda What's the point in putting a high end power cable into a PS Audio regenerator?  Isn't that the purpose of the regenerator, to take bad power and make it pure?
Why spend thousands on a PS Audio power regenerator if it doesn't fix the crappy romex in the walls? 


apanhc
16 posts
 
I've been in the same situation trying Transparent, Shunyata, NBS, Nordost power cords from the wall to my Tice conditioner. Ended up a week ago with Anticables Level 3 power cord being greatly impressed and ordered 3 more. Definitely give it a try, and you can always return them if not satisfied!
hshifi
572 posts
 
Hello, If you are going from the wall to the conditioner I would go for thicker gauge copper wire. On the cheep, amazon makes some decent cables. Higher end I would go PS Audio 12. You can get used ones all over the place. I believe they use solid copper vs. stranded. After the conditioning you can start experimenting with silver and different gauges. I am partial to Nordost Blue Heaven, especially when it comes to the source equipment. What ever you do make sure you can try it first or be able to return it. Amazon lets you return. Try to get all the cables you are considering for the specific reason at the same time so you can compare apples to apples. Start with the cheapest and move up until you can not hear a difference. Finally, is that final cable worth the price, if not go down one. 
pfeiffer OP
52 posts
 
@f1status1    My best advice is to start at the source and take your time. If you can create a dedicated line for your system that is a great start. But if you can't do that, a quality dedicated wall receptacle for the source of your system is a good thing.  Next (and I have had audiophile friends who swear by this), A conditioner or regenerator that most, or all, of your components can be plugged into. After that, take your time and carefully think about your component power cords, interconnects, system rack, etc.  But again, the one thing that would be the best initial tweek is a good conditioner/regenerator.  The key is going slowly and to visit your doctor before you start and see if he has the latest inoculation for Audio Nervosa!  Good luck and keep it fun.  Jim
mtdining's avatar
mtdining
131 posts
 
If sound quality is what you are after, choose from a manufacturer with decades of empirical data compiled: whatever Transparent Audio power cable you can afford, or likewise from Shunyata Research. I can and have made good sounding power cables, but not near the sound quality of these two!
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