Question about suitable fuse metals

I've been wanting to experiment with audiophile fuses for a while but the cost and the concern of blowing one of these costly fuses has kept me from purchasing.  However, I read that solid slugs actually sound better than fuses and cost WAY less, so I purchased a 6" rod of 99.99 copper and, because I wasn't really thinking, also purchased another 6" rod of titanium.  I guess I was thinking of rhodium, palladium, or platinum, not titanium.   I had these cut down to 20mm and, so far have tried them in my amp, a Red Dragon S500, and my DAC, the Bel Canto 2.8, which I run direct without a preamp.   The titanium slug sounds pretty darn good in the DAC, noticeably better than the copper. I tried one in the amp as well and that combo did not work well at all.  The amp is doing better with the copper slug.  I looked up the electrical conductivity of titanium and found it is a rather poor conductor.  Is there any risk to the DAC using the titanium slug, given the poor electrial conductivity?  Thanks for any relevant input.


Yes, the slugs were the cause of the very significant improvement in sound as that's the only variable that's changed and  I've literally listened late at night THOUSANDS of times and I've not heard this precision of sound, in my systems, ever before.   Try it yourself.  Between the 2 rods acquired from Mcmaster Carr for around $20, 6" of 99.99 copper and titanium with shipping and $30 to have a machine shop cut them to 20mm lengths (of which I have 7 copper and 7 titanium), my total investment was close to $50.  I would have gleefully paid 10x this much, much more if I could afford it for the kind of improvement I'm hearing.  Of course, it's going to be highly dependent on whether your equipment is resolving enough to reveal this kind of detail.  I doubt replacing the fuses in an A/V receiver with slug would do much of anything.

I’m okay with bypassing the fuses in a audio system. But, I’d recommend the following:

Install a heat sensor (standard security system hardware) above the system. Hook a 12v solenoid (plunger) to a power supply. Mount this adjacent to a wall-mounted fire extinguisher. Decorate to blend with existing motif in the room. So, when system is ablaze, the wax in the temp sensor melts causing the little spring to push the contact closed, activating the solenoid, that jams the plunger into the trigger on the the fire extinguisher, putting out the fire. Might be a little "collateral damage" but, hey, much cheaper than building a new home. Pretty basic engineering. Low cost. And, no fuse!!

But, seriously, if we really want to get "tweaky" here, I’d take some very high quality power cable and jumper around the fuse hold completely and silver solder the connections to the board. This would bypass all inferior metal, and eliminate a contact/relay point in the circuit.

CIrcuit breakers are preferred by many. We’ve substituted chassis mounted circuit breakers in place of fuse/holders in vintage gear with good results.


I don't need homeowner's insurance (never had my house burn down before), don't need to screen for cancer (never died from cancer before); don't need to look both ways before crossing the street (close, but never been hit by a car while walking).  WOW, there are plenty of things I don't need. 

Why put in slugs when you can cut out the fuse holder and straight wire the circuit?  If something does happen, be sure to cover up the evidence so you don't lose your insurance coverage?  Oh, I forgot, you don't have insurance (don't need it).

You guys act like audio equipment is this huge household fire risk, that it could go up at any time with disasterous results.  I've not see it before nor since I gave up my tubed equipment.  I'm not saying it's 100% safe but, what is?  And I can recall 2 times when there actually were fire risk situations at my residence and both involved appliances we all have and seldom pay much attention too.  The power cord on an old lamp had become frayed and began to spark.  I heard it from the other room and noticed a hint of a burning smell when investigating.  Also had a fan motor go bad and it was beginning to burn.  Were either of those appliances fused?  No?  Well, shouldn't they all be....according to you guys?   I don't leave my audio system on when I'm not around unlike lights or fans so....  what to do?  How to be safe?   I think there is quite a bit overreacting to bypassing the fuses on a couple of audio components here but thanks for your concern (but the condemnation).





These are not my words, but they ring true to me:

"An AC line fuse on the primary side of the power transformer is not going to make any audible difference, since the AC will be stepped down, rectified and smoothed into DC, then regulated before it reaches any amplification circuitry."

And if that's not convincing, let's ask the experts at ARS.  Where all audiophiles turn for unbiased opinions (come on now, every now and then they get it right)

" I do not say that any so called audiophile fuses are any better, I will say that if the fuse is not used directly in the audio circuit path, (ie it is used in the incoming mains ac power) it is highly unlikely to have any audible improvement for even the most golden of golden ears and I would place some money on those bets any day of the week."

For what it's worth, I bought a high end fuse for my amp after reading about them on this very site.  And the difference in sound was absolutely zero.  The only sound I heard was my $150 flying out the window.  My ears not golden enough?  Maybe. There are just some things that defy logic, and this is one of them.  If you are hearing a difference, then that's all that matters.  Cheers.