Resistor Burn-in Methods


Hi Forum,

A few years ago I got bored with my ARC VT-130 and decided to revoice it after purchasing a Jeff Rowland 625s.  Nothing like a new piece of gear to make you dissatisfied with your existing components. That said, I still liked the tube amp and did not want to sell it for something different instead, figuring careful and deliberative changes in parts could elevate the  25 year old amp to a better performance level.

Taking great pains not to change the core sound and performance of the amp (not an easy task) I only made changes to the signal path resistors and its 4 main coupling caps. My goal was to replace the old factory carbon comp resistors of the amp in order to increase its transparency by using modern resistors as well as to increase the soundstage width and depth by changing the amps 4 main coupling caps. After buying practically every boutique resistor Hifi-Collective had in stock, I painstakingly soldered and de-soldered numerous resistors in different locations, burning in each resistor for roughly 400 hours each before evaluating.  The whole process took roughly 4-5 months of auditioning until I eventually came upon a combination that delivered the goods.  The resulting mod now uses a combination of Shinkoh, Takman REX, Riken RMG, Audio Note resistors and Vcap Odam caps, which together render superb texture, body and transparency not to mention bowling alley deep soundstage performance -- keeping in mind that this is a 25 year old amplifier design.  As one forum contributor commented, “the diamond is already cut.’  However, I believe, even an old diamond can benefit from modern polishing equipment and techniques.

I write all this to ask if there was an easier way to burn-in all those resistors out of the circuit, like a cable burner or break-out board of some sort?  I settled on soldering in some cut-off resistor leads to the PCB locations, then lightly tacking the different resistors to those leads which made swapping out the resistors much easier.  But, I still had to use up precious tube hours in the process. At that time, I only had one set of SED 6550 Winged Cs that was used.

Looking back, I want to slap my forehead for wasting those tubes during the modification.  I did consider buying a set of cheap tubes... but I wanted to voice the amp using the tube type I typically use.  In the end, I am extremely satisfied with the resulting sound and listen to the amp for several hours every week with joy. Now, if I could only find a really good replacement for the Winged Cs.

ballen1

Congratulations on getting your amp sounding the way you want!  As you noted, it requires a lot of time and patience to try lots of different resistors and capacitors to find the best match for your system and your priorities, but that really is the only way.  And it’s much more rewarding than blindly following advice on the internet.

As you said, new components go through a burn-in period before reaching their final state, and that makes it difficult to evaluate new parts.  I use a burn-in jig to speed up the process.  If you are installing a new resistor or cap in a spot where it won’t have DC across it, the jig is very simple.  If it’s a low-current application like a resistor in the range of 1K to 1M, just connect it across the output of a line-level source like a CD player or FM tuner and let it play 24/7.  For a coupling capacitor that won’t have DC across it, connect it in series with a resistor load on the CD player output.   For parts that will have more current such as small value resistors or larger caps, you can do the same thing but connect them to the speaker outputs of an amp or receiver.  For parts that will have DC across them, I use an old tube linestage and connect the parts in the circuit somewhere similar to how they will be used after the burn-in is complete, then run the linestage with a CD player or tuner so it has actual signal.  I continue the burn-in for 75 hours or more depending on how quickly the particular parts break in based on past experience.
 

This may sound complicated but it’s not, and it saves a lot of time.  I find the burned-in parts still go through a settling period once they are installed wherever I intend to use them, but usually it’s enough to just run the component overnight.

Congratulations on getting your amp sounding the way you want!  As you noted, it requires a lot of time and patience to try lots of different resistors and capacitors to find the best match for your system and your priorities, but that really is the only way.  And it’s much more rewarding than blindly following advice on the internet.

As you said, new components go through a burn-in period before reaching their final state, and that makes it difficult to evaluate new parts.  I use a burn-in jig to speed up the process.  If you are installing a new resistor or cap in a spot where it won’t have DC across it, the jig is very simple.  If it’s a low-current application like a resistor in the range of 1K to 1M, just connect it across the output of a line-level source like a CD player or FM tuner and let it play 24/7.  For a coupling capacitor that won’t have DC across it, connect it in series with a resistor load on the CD player output.   For parts that will have more current such as small value resistors or larger caps, you can do the same thing but connect them to the speaker outputs of an amp or receiver.  For parts that will have DC across them, I use an old tube linestage and connect the parts in the circuit somewhere similar to how they will be used after the burn-in is complete, then run the linestage with a CD player or tuner so it has actual signal.  I continue the burn-in for 75 hours or more depending on how quickly the particular parts break in based on past experience.
 

This may sound complicated but it’s not, and it saves a lot of time.  I find the burned-in parts still go through a settling period once they are installed wherever I intend to use them, but usually it’s enough to just run the component overnight.

Thank you for your thoughtful reply. This makes sense.  I had toyed around with the idea of buying a cheap receiver at a pawn shop to use for something similar but didn't know I could simlly use the CD outputs as you described.  I'll keep this conversation for referencing the next time...

I must admit, the result of the process was very satisfying when it was all said and done.  My knowledge and skills certainly improved along the way.  Some of my past diy projects didn't always turn out so well.  A few years ago, I tried to upgrade some speaker x/overs.  $2500 later the speaker and several boxes of high end parts still set in the bottom of my closet, waiting for my patience and newly acquired knowledge to brave trying again.  Thanks again for your advice -- much appreciated.

Enjoy the music!