Sakura Systems OTA Cable Kit

hello to theaudiotweak...Is the copper based solder that you mentioned above commonly available?Is there a specific name for it? I plan on replacing some arteries on my Triangles this weekend and need to pick some of that up.I should've gone all the way with the OTA right from the start;but then what would I screw around with now...? Thanks for the info and input.

Dave,the solder is called Riehl Copper Solder named after its composition designer Brent Riehl. This solder has no lead and no flux. I got it to flow well. You do need to have a quality gun with adjustable temperature. This is, by far the best sounding solder I believe I have heard. Reason I feel I can say this is I have 2 Sonoran cables one with the older high quality solder and another identical, but with the copper based. The difference is not sudtle.This solder is sold by the pound call 1-877-668-4332.This is also where I purchased the hook up wire. Tom

Tom, thanks for the info. Sounds like you've messed around with some different solders, eh? Have you tried the Wonder,WBT, or the Cardas Quad Eutectic? I have only read their names (along with several other types)in the Tweakers Asylum.I guess I've opened another can of worms.Looks like a quality iron will be neccessary to make the "good stuff" flow.. there was something else about midnight , a full moon and swinging a chicken overhead (no problem there)...I appreciate the feedback.thanks,Dave

Slawney, it was my post that recommended using the two different wire gauges (thin hot, thick return). However, not for ICs but only for speakers cables. In my system it produced better bass.

My Japanese speaking friend is going back to Japan next week and may visit Mr. Kimura again. While there he can ask him (not the distributor!) directly, if the thicker cable would make a good power cable. I would call Mr. Kimura myself, but he does not speak English and my Japanese is rusty. The last time my friend was there Mr. Kimura gave him the exact power cable and another experimental cable he was using in his reference system. My friend gave me the cables, but I have not used them as the gauge looks too small-might start a fire, although the insulation is thicker than on the OTA.

What might work is to hardwire the OTA to the the component and attach a plug at the end and plug that end into your favorite power cord. That way the first power cord can dampen the mechanical resonances and the OTA can further refine the filtered power.

I have had very good results using the standard OTA as a power cable for my CD/DVD player. As the player is internally grounded (and obviously is not very current hungry) it was simply a matter of terminating the wire, live and neutral, with a male plug (used a Hubbell 5266C if I remember the part # correctly) and an iec (used a Schurter). I also ran the OTA wire through 1/8" heat shrink (without shrinking it down) just to give me some added peace of mind, not that I deserve it. Just made me feel a bit better, but I'm sure many out there will tell me I'm crazy for doing this. I'd never have the nerve to attach it to anything that needed to be grounded or was very current hungry, but in this application it has been fabulous, improving upon a $350 retail power cord, and allowing me to shift that cord onto another piece of equipment with a decent, but inferior cord.