Should I buy a Class A Amp.

Hi Don,

In terms of their impedance characteristics, your Eminent Technology LFT-8B speakers are exceptionally easy to drive compared to most others. And their wavelaunch characteristics, which are essentially planar above the deep bass region, mean that at typical listening distances their 83 db sensitivity rating is equivalent to the sensitivities of box-type speakers that are rated at least several db higher.

Therefore the ability of an amplifier such as the KSA-200 to supply huge amounts of current and power into very low impedances would be unlikely to provide any benefit with your speakers. Meaning that a considerable fraction of your amplifier dollars would be going toward amplifier capabilities that you don’t need.

Also, as has been alluded to the age of such an amp suggests that condition-related issues stand a good chance of surfacing sooner rather than later, and repairs can be expected to be expensive.

That said, I would expect that an amplifier upgrade of some sort is likely to provide significant benefit. I say that in part because the extremely "good" specs on your Sony TA-N80ES amp for THD and IMD are suggestive of the likelihood that feedback has been applied in the design in a heavy-handed manner, which can often do more sonic harm than good.

Also, if by any chance you are using the balanced inputs of the Sony amp, I would definitely try changing to the unbalanced inputs. I say that in part because its balanced inputs have an input impedance of only 600 ohms, which most consumer equipment cannot drive with optimal or even good results, and in part because the writeup I linked to indicates that the balanced inputs were implemented using "rather low-end componentry."

The bottom line on what I would do regarding an amplifier upgrade is to begin by researching what amplifiers others have reported to provide good results with your particular speakers. And then consider whichever of those strike your fancy and suit your budget, regardless of whether it is class A, AB, or D, and whether it is tube or solid state. While keeping in mind that the manual for your speakers recommends amplifier power ratings of between 75 and 200 watts.

Best of luck. Regards,
-- Al

cleeds,

The 300 series amplifiers operate as virtual perfect textbook cases as a "Voltage Source". This is to say that "They" will maintain whatever the appropriate voltage might be at any moment (given the demands of music, and within the rated output voltage of the amplifier) without any particular regard for the current demands of the loudspeaker.

Because of this "Voltage Source" characteristic, the 300 series amplifiers double their output everytime the loudspeaker impedance is cut by half. For example the no.336’s continuous output is 350 watts per channel @8ohms, 700 watts per channel @4ohms and 1400 watts @2 ohms- assuming the electrical circuit in the wall can support these extraordinary power levels. A "continuous" 2ohm test of the no.336 at maximum power would require 50 amperes at 120v.

No known high quality loudspeaker can absorb the continuous full power of the no. 336. However, many high quality loudspeakers can handle rather extreme power levels on a "Short Term" basis when reproducing music at realistic levels. The 300 series amplifiers answer these needs with impunity, without any power supply sag and without altering their sonic performance in any way.

Unfortunately, the thermal management problems in true Class A in a "High Current Output Stage" can be severe and offer sonic compromises of their own. For this reason, the Levinson 300 series are not Class A biased in a traditional fashion.
(All "Voltage Gain Stages" are biased to operate in full Class A mode in order to keep the active device safely within their most linear range at all times).

N

What a great thread has been created.  I need to make more friends like this. :)

The other thing, one not often mentioned, is that if your ears can't tell a difference, don't spend the money. Stereo equipment, like cars, rarely ages well. It's not worth spending $20 for a "better" amplifier if you can't hear the difference. OF course, reliability, size, power all matter too.  I just meant that no matter what the consensus may be of a particular piece of gear, spend your money for you, not others. :) That $20 could better be spent on a new LP.

Best,

Erik

I'm with czarivey...if you live in the Sakha region of Russia and you're at 20 degrees below freezing and hope to accomplish the dual task of listening to music while preventing hypothermia, buy yourself a nice Class A amp.   They make wonderful space heaters in the winter.    Otherwise, no thanks.  I personally went Class D and never looked back.    440wpc and you couldn't melt a slice of cheese on it.  Great sound + energy efficiency = happy times.

Class A amplifier's!, don't Look back!