Should I buy a Class A Amp.

inna2,069 posts07-19-2016 11:09amGeorge, thank you.
Would you some people mind writing in normal English?

Sorry inna, that was more for the techs here, who want to know why I’m in favour of well designed Class A amps

BTW: I noticed my link to the Mark Levinson ML2  25w Class A mono block beasts didn’t take here it is.
http://www.highendclassics.com/brands/marklevinsonml2-2

Cheers George

nutty

Not sure where you're getting the 1400watt output number.  ML's specs indicate 2 ohm output to 500wpc. 

Please post the source for the specs you claim. 

bpoletti,

I'm getting my specs from my manual. My system with the no. 334 is 125w 8ohm, 250w 4ohm, 500w 2ohm.
The no. 336 referenced in the post is rated 1400w 2ohm. 

N

The 300 series ML’s are high biased class A/B, B after the bias runs out, they are not pure Class A.
Looking at the heatsinks I say about 20-30w Class A bias max, as Stereophile also said they weren’t too hot to touch, even after 1 hour pre-conditioning at 1/3rd power.
If they were pure Class A they’d be the size of a very large coffee table with heatsinks big enough to warm the whole neighborhood.

Stereophile full power tests on the No.334 are at 1% THD!!!.
8ohm = 139.9w
4ohm = 243w
2ohm = 430w

Bottom of the page measurement chart
http://www.stereophile.com/content/mark-levinson-no334-power-amplifier-measurements-page-3#toJJo0Xxp6m0aqe4.97

Cheers George

What about older Rowlands, 8T and 9T, and even older 5 and 7, how were they doing in terms of class A? Gryphons, I think, were and perhaps still are pure class A.