Should I buy a Class A Amp.

bpoletti,

I'm getting my specs from my manual. My system with the no. 334 is 125w 8ohm, 250w 4ohm, 500w 2ohm.
The no. 336 referenced in the post is rated 1400w 2ohm. 

N

The 300 series ML’s are high biased class A/B, B after the bias runs out, they are not pure Class A.
Looking at the heatsinks I say about 20-30w Class A bias max, as Stereophile also said they weren’t too hot to touch, even after 1 hour pre-conditioning at 1/3rd power.
If they were pure Class A they’d be the size of a very large coffee table with heatsinks big enough to warm the whole neighborhood.

Stereophile full power tests on the No.334 are at 1% THD!!!.
8ohm = 139.9w
4ohm = 243w
2ohm = 430w

Bottom of the page measurement chart
http://www.stereophile.com/content/mark-levinson-no334-power-amplifier-measurements-page-3#toJJo0Xxp6m0aqe4.97

Cheers George

What about older Rowlands, 8T and 9T, and even older 5 and 7, how were they doing in terms of class A? Gryphons, I think, were and perhaps still are pure class A.

All high bias Class A/B I think except for an early massive Gryphon which was suppose to be pure class A to clipping into 8ohms.

You just have to look at the old huge ML25 monoblocks which were 25w pure class A only into 8ohms. The heat factor goes up exponentially the more watts there are, because the rail volts have be to increased.

So for two amps, one 20w class A that’s all.
And the other 100watts class A/B still with only 20w of Class A bias, this amp will be 4 x hotter. Even though their both only 20w Class A.
This is why I had to water cool the amp I made 4 posts back because I wanted 150w and Class A all the way.
Cheers George

I see.
What happened to your built amp or you still use it?