Siltech cable guages i.e. AWG


Hello;

I've been trying to get some information on the gauge of some of the Siltech lineup and haven't been able to find any information. The Siltech website sucks, next to no information on their cables. I sent an e-mail a few days ago but haven't received a response.

It's the speaker cables and power cables I'm most interested in and at this point even seeing an aggregate gauge of the cables including shields would be of help.

I'm interested in the following:

330L
550L
770L
Prince
King

SPX-800
Ruby Hill II
Ruby Mountain II

For power cables the largest gauge cable I'm familiar with is the Kimber PK-10 series which I believe is aggregate 10AWG so I can use that as a reference. Similarly for speaker cables the largest aggregate cable I'm familiar with is the Kimber Monocle XL which might be around 8AWG. So even if people were able to say for example the SPX-800 is roughly the same thickness as the PK-10, or the 770L is about as thick as the Monocle XL that helps me get an idea.

Thanks
brystonuser

Showing 9 responses by bvdiman

Nope.. Let's hope there's someone who has them (SPX-800) chime in here for you.
Not sure design of new Triple Crown (availability delayed to early 2015), but as far as their IC, seems to be just a 'ground'/'float' switch built in-between. Looking forward to hearing one.

Re Jumper cable upgrade, perhaps it is my speakers which incorporate Duelund silver cast caps in crossovers that are particularly fussy/sensitive, ie. responding real well to that last few inches of wires.

Excerpt of its design/execution from the Manufacturer :
"06-21-11: Tidal
The Contriva Diacera TT was a limited series of only 5 pairs with the original Sunray drivers, pure silver parts (as for our Sunray / T1 models), a whole new internal wiring concept incl. a new terminal for passive and active bi-amping incl. our silver/goldplated softcopper binding posts from the Sunray.
Well, the drivers itself were more expensive then the drivers we build into our other speakers, but this is just a smaller part on the list, the major part and biggest difference is the massive silver PIO Cast parts we used for this speaker and the whole new x-overdesign which we adopted to the new drivers. And I am not talking about some standard silverfoil caps as for e.g. Mundorf Supreme parts, I am talking about high µF-values in massive silver, and these parts alone are more expensive then the big diamond tweeter in it.
The two aluminum rings in the front do have a positive influence to the reflections of the grills and just show that it is not just a "tuned Contriva Diacera". Each pair also needed much more hours to build it then a serial pair of Contriva Diacera. If one is one of the few persons who saw and heard one then one should know if this speaker is a different ballgame even to the serial speakers :-).
Tidal (Answers | This Thread)"

If you perceive there should be no discernible difference for yours good then you save some there. But yes, still better to use matching Jumpers as main SC though.. :)
Hi,
Ruby Hill - center 5cm, end 4cm.
Ruby Double Crown - center 8cm, end 5cm.
*apprx. just measured using string :)
Ruby Mountain should be, or at least looks similar to Ruby DC - don't own one.
Hi Brystonuser! ;)
For SCs :
Prince > King - Increase girth diameter in middle, also thicker at termination ends.
King > Emperor Crown - Similar girth, slightly thicker stiffer w/tighter twists at ends.
Emperor Crown > Double Crown - Visually similar perhaps only a 'tad' thicker at ends.

For ICs :
Compass Lake > Empress Crown > Empress Double Crown - All look fairly similar. Difference being only the model designation/names at their respective bullet plugs.

PCs :
Ruby Hill II > Ruby Mountain II - Definite step up in girth size at middle, as well~ends.
Ruby Mountain II > Ruby Double Crown - Again, visually similar, Ruby DC comes standard with Furutech F50 plugs. While Ruby M uses Wattgate, w/upgrade option to factory retrofit (+surcharge) same top Furutech carbon ones.

Have you tried/decided on any yet? I bet it will complement your Brystons very nicely.. But still best to request from your dealer a full loom loaner first to decide if they are really for you. For these money, choose and buy right, try to avoid/minimize any possibility of co$tly buyer's remorse later on. Goodluck.
I think you should be able to specifically request Furutech Carbon for Ruby Hill II. (Option upcharge is 370 Euro from standard *Furutech Gold to Furutech FI50 plugs ~ difference I see for Ruby Mountain II model). *my mistake, it is Furutech Gold and not Wattgate as stated in previous post.
Shortest length for SC order is 1M. List for Prince is 4200 Euro, and King 6500 Euro ~ for the 1M/pair.
Pls re-confirm w/dealer as my referral is out of price list I had from couple of years ago.
I've only listened/compared the 770L vs Prince briefly at my brother's. System is Alexia,
ARC Ref 150, Ref 5SE, CD 9. We heard quite a step up notably in overall refinement--
tonality as well dynamics. But not wanting to spend too much, he happily settled for the
770L.

In my set-up, I was using the KS Elation originally when testing the Prince. Prince tonality
was more spot-on for my taste. Then tested King, compared, and decided on it. Similar
tonality this time (Prince vs King), but more of everything.. More meat on the bone which
resulted in weightier presentation, hence foundation to music. I remember noticing
slightly richer harmonics and better saturation of timbres too.

When moving to Emperor Crown, the above experience was more/less repeated. And
damn.. whilst saving for Double Crown, they now come out with Triple! Think I'll stay put
for a bit and perhaps wait for E.DC to pop up at good price on the used market. Or get a
very very short run of TC if proven they are really good. At least for now I'm quite
contend using just the DC jumpers. ;)

*If your speakers are true bi-wireable and benefit from such, you could like me get a 1-2
grade higher for jumper wires.. Say if using Prince, get the King or even Emperor Crown
jumper-set to jump from Low to Mid-Hi section of your speaker's binding posts.. You'll
appreciate the improvements for much less money.
Tried Audioquest Wel Signature loom in my system last year (SC, ICs, PCs, RJ/E). Good resolution, speed, clarity and image specifity. However, high and bass were a tad thin, overall presentation were a little mechanical with tendency to slight brightness (upper mid/lower treble). Bass was also a little weak/light. But biggest deal breaker for me was that they lack the dense/weighty, organic, 3-dimensional palpability as when compared to the other looms I had on hand (StageIII, Tara, N.Odin). Brought and tested them in two other friend's systems, slightly different results but inherent characters were acknowledged as being all the same. They did fare a little better when I swapped out their PCs and RJ/E.. But oh well. Anyways, I always prefer to run/test cabling in loom from same brand--everything in-synch as I call it--whenever possible.

As Brystonuser puts it, yes, we sure do hear things differently, as well, different set of preference/system/music taste etc.--hence choices. Perhaps AQ is the best match for the Monitor Audio, Onkyo, Sony, Oddysey and Kemp electronics you are selling.. But not necessarily for others--so no need to put down other competing brands when conducting your business BO. Goodluck.
Excerpt from Marc's Sounstage review 2008 :

"And there the single pair of WEL Signature interconnects and the speaker cables have been ever since. I've had to remove them a couple of times for reviewing purposes, but they didn't go unused for long. I still have fond memories of the very expensive Siltech Signature Compass Lake interconnects and The Emperor speaker cables I wrote about a few years ago -- Siltech's best at the time, and the best I had come across. There's no question that the WEL Signature cables deserve to be discussed along with them, and they are far less expensive."

*Compass/Emperor are Siltech's vintage flagship (from early 2000), yet interestingly still held as benchmark then. And I can tell you that their current Crown/DoubleCrown series are in totally different playing field altogether. Albeit, at a cost.
Hi Brystonuser,

http://hifi-unlimited.blogspot.com/2009/08/tale-of-three-heavenly-fairy-sisters.html

Link to an old review which I've posted elsewhere in which summary seems to relate what's been advised by your dealer i.e. get 330 or straight to 770--skip the 550. Cheers!

*Oops, review on SCs whereas question posed was ICs.. But guess it's relevant enough. ;)