Adding to Jasljs's good post: The wattage has to be appropriate for the job. If there isn't enough, you will get a cold solder joint. Too much and applying to much heat (contacting for too long) and you start melting things other than solder. The lowest wattage irons are only good for component replacement, but won't nearly be enough heat for the speaker binding posts. For general purpose use, a spade tip, like a common screwdriver, is best. A pointy conical tip will drive you crazy with inadequate heat transfer most of the time, unless doing very fine work. And don't move until the solder solidifies. Blowing helps.
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If I may add to the fine suggestions already made. I have two soldering stations, one being the Hakko 936 and the other a Tenma. They both work great & I use the Tenma more because I keep a smaller tip on it, as compared to a chisel tip on the Hakko, although the chisel is only twice the size of the point. The Hakko has the lighter wand & if you spend a lot of hrs. soldering, this may be a factor. For lighter work I set the temp ~650 & for spkr. wire type work I run ~850. Tinning the tip is of utmost importance & make sure the tip is tight to the wand if you use a non-fixed tip. Also, I've found using a wire type tip cleaner works better for me than a sponge. Size of the tip is less important than the temp, as you can manipulate the wand if necessary. If you need accurate temp. control, I'd suggest a digital readout or calibrated knob, otherwise a basic soldering station that still has an adjustable heat range will work fine, like this one |
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