Still mystified by mega expensive power cords


AC travels miles from the substation, enters my house, goes into a panel, then runs to my hifi equipment. Once inside the equipment it goes through whatever wiring the manufacturer used. I don't understand how the few feet from the outlet to the back of the gear can make some of the dramatic changes claim (low end goes down another octave, deeper wider soundstage, etc). My thought is that as long as the power cord is shielded so that it's not working like an antenna, properly grounded, and of sufficient guage so that you're not loosing juice to heat, and has contacts that make a solid connection, any power cable should sound like the next, especially since the AC coming in is rectified and smoothed.

I'm not looking for flames, but for those that believe in power cables, enlighten me. Or said another way, can that $11,000 plus power cable I saw today possiblet do more than fatten the manufacturer's wallet?
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Lacee, I enjoyed your post, I to have dedicated lines with after market power cords, works great!, I agree with your findings 100%
I make all my own power cords too. All wire has resistance. And will have a voltage drop for every so feet of wire and gauge. Go far enough and you'll have almost no voltage at all on the other side. There is even a calculator online that is accurate. Any engineer would need to know that by heart and use it often.

Electricity loves the path of least resistance. That is where is flows best and fastest. The shorter and thicker the power cord or line is the better. Pure copper and silver are the best conductors on the planet. The less brass the better, the less gold the better (although gold doesn't corrode so I give it that, but pure copper is better for transmission). The thicker and purer the copper the better. The tighter the connection the better. You want the least amount of connections as possible. Usually outlets and connections have brass in them. This damages the flow of electricity and causes resistance. Higher quality ends can have more copper and thicker copper with better tighter connections.

With good tight connectors and ends and a thick gauge from your local home improvement store you're going to get the best electricity you can going to your gear (and it's pretty dang cheap to boot!). Yes you'll get different sounds from different cords but the one that get's the signal there the most intact and less voltage drop and least resistance is going to the the purest. That is the one you want. And that is going to be the one with the shortest run, best contact, thickest gauge. And that can be made for relatively cheap with some good hospital grade outlets, good thick wire from the improvement store, and the least breaks in the line and least brass as possible.

If you can go pure silver sure you can do that, that's even better but it's only 5% better conductor and tarnishes pretty easy. And is really really expensive for a little bit better transmission improvement. A slightly thicker copper will make up for it.

Not everyone wants to make their own cords though. And that's fine. As you've noticed the best and most expensive cords are almost always the thickest ones. There is a reason for that. I just don't think the price is justified, sure they will try to add all kinds of other buzz words to it and techniques they say will help, but in the end it was the tighter connection, less brass, thicker wire, that made it better than the cheaper ones in their line. Stuff I can do for dirt cheap on my own.
Hi Kacz, I agree with your findings, although I own a aftermarket pre-made power cord, It is 10 awg, 1-meter long, one of the best model oyaide terminated plugs, this coensides with what you said, However, I have to correct you on one thing, that is the Hospital grade recepticals, Do not use them!, they are plated!, gos against what the both of us know!, get a pure audiophile out-let, make sure it is not plated, use a Iridium/copper cryo treated, very, very, thick metal on both sides of the receptical that is 20 amps, this can handle 30 amps that will not melt or get to hot, this will result with pure current flow, with NO interruption of Electricity, It is not plated!
Kacz, remember that copper oxide is a terrible conductor while silver oxide is pretty good. Most of everything else you say is simplistic if not also wrong.
Silver won't tarnish (oxidize) when used as a conductor in a cable mostly because of the lack of oxygen thing.