Still mystified by mega expensive power cords

The quality and unfortunately, that's related to cost, of the connectors can have an impact on the power cord.

Just switching the ends made a difference in the sound of the wires.

So does eliminating as many connections as you can.

I've simplified things so that I run a direct 10 guage line from the panel to my amp using only one IEC connector on the line then into the amp.

Because of safety issues,a direct soldered connection to the amp would be the ultimate.

So I am not using any DIY or Store bought power cords to the amps and I've noticed an increase in dynamics and resolution.

I am not saying that power cords don't matter,just the opposite.

It's all about the power delivery to the gear that matters.

If it didn't I would have stuck with plugging the amps into the wall on a non dedicated 15 amp line with stock power cords.

I've only experimented with DIY and Shunyata power cords,but it's always been easy for me to hear that no two are alike.

And like most things in this hobby the quality(and expense)of the connectors played a major part in shaping the sound.

If someone has to decide on where to save some money,don't let it be the connectors if DIY.

My first DIY power cord was back in 1987 when I replaced the thin power cords on my Quad 63.
I used the Quad IEC, bought generic male plug and used 12 guage solid core romex.

All stock power cords from that time on stayed in the box.

Lacee, I enjoyed your post, I to have dedicated lines with after market power cords, works great!, I agree with your findings 100%

I make all my own power cords too. All wire has resistance. And will have a voltage drop for every so feet of wire and gauge. Go far enough and you'll have almost no voltage at all on the other side. There is even a calculator online that is accurate. Any engineer would need to know that by heart and use it often.

Electricity loves the path of least resistance. That is where is flows best and fastest. The shorter and thicker the power cord or line is the better. Pure copper and silver are the best conductors on the planet. The less brass the better, the less gold the better (although gold doesn't corrode so I give it that, but pure copper is better for transmission). The thicker and purer the copper the better. The tighter the connection the better. You want the least amount of connections as possible. Usually outlets and connections have brass in them. This damages the flow of electricity and causes resistance. Higher quality ends can have more copper and thicker copper with better tighter connections.

With good tight connectors and ends and a thick gauge from your local home improvement store you're going to get the best electricity you can going to your gear (and it's pretty dang cheap to boot!). Yes you'll get different sounds from different cords but the one that get's the signal there the most intact and less voltage drop and least resistance is going to the the purest. That is the one you want. And that is going to be the one with the shortest run, best contact, thickest gauge. And that can be made for relatively cheap with some good hospital grade outlets, good thick wire from the improvement store, and the least breaks in the line and least brass as possible.

If you can go pure silver sure you can do that, that's even better but it's only 5% better conductor and tarnishes pretty easy. And is really really expensive for a little bit better transmission improvement. A slightly thicker copper will make up for it.

Not everyone wants to make their own cords though. And that's fine. As you've noticed the best and most expensive cords are almost always the thickest ones. There is a reason for that. I just don't think the price is justified, sure they will try to add all kinds of other buzz words to it and techniques they say will help, but in the end it was the tighter connection, less brass, thicker wire, that made it better than the cheaper ones in their line. Stuff I can do for dirt cheap on my own.

Hi Kacz, I agree with your findings, although I own a aftermarket pre-made power cord, It is 10 awg, 1-meter long, one of the best model oyaide terminated plugs, this coensides with what you said, However, I have to correct you on one thing, that is the Hospital grade recepticals, Do not use them!, they are plated!, gos against what the both of us know!, get a pure audiophile out-let, make sure it is not plated, use a Iridium/copper cryo treated, very, very, thick metal on both sides of the receptical that is 20 amps, this can handle 30 amps that will not melt or get to hot, this will result with pure current flow, with NO interruption of Electricity, It is not plated!

Kacz, remember that copper oxide is a terrible conductor while silver oxide is pretty good. Most of everything else you say is simplistic if not also wrong.