Stylus-Drag..Fact or Fiction?

OK, enough BS about setting RPM with or without a record being played. Any decent TT has one of several motor-speed control methods to lock-in on or close 33 1/3 (or 45) RPM. Having arrived at "any" RPM setting/value the motor-speed-control compensates for stylus drag or lack thereof. That's why its referred to as speed-control. The Raven exemplifies the precision of its "speed-control" in the video. Because the laser point "changed position" due to stylus drag or lack of is only proof of its existence for that brief interval before compensation is made. If the RPM be exact the point after negative feed back should remain steady which it does. Because it has moved to right or left is not an argument but holding steady under varying loads is testimony to the TT's motor-speed-control's accuracy. The beauty of the Timeline is to allow you to set the Raven's RPM as close to 33 1/3 as possible and doing so with or without drag is BS. Video shows the laser point holds rock steady 33 1/3 RPM under all conditions including no drag. If the point moves with each subsequent revolution of platter it indicates other than a 33 1/3 RPM but says nothing of the TT accuracy of holding a desired higher or lower RPM setting. That's what's important.The timeline is nothing but a clock flashing every 1.8 seconds. Stick your finger on platter and you change laser point position and MSC should keep it steady where ever this dot ends up. Because the dot has changed original position only indicates a sudden load event has occurred. If perfectly set at 33 1/3 and dot is stationary after initial load change dot on wall will remain at position. A movement of dot merely indicates other than non attainable perfect RPM which isn't the most important thing here.

The simplest way to correct for stylus drag is to play a test tone, say 1000 Hz, then adjust the speed of the turntable (if adjustable) until the frequency read-out on a frequency meter reads 1000 Hz. A good Fluke meter with frequency read-out will do nicely.  There may be a different drag for different frequencies, but setting it for one frequency seems about the simplest solution.

Mijostyn , you are looking at it from the wrong angle. Added stylus friction is inevitable but the system can be optimized to best deal with it. Lowest possible bearing friction is part of that puzzle. Low friction bearing make even small motors look huge .A heavy platter helps but rpm  ultimately  goes back to the motor and how its coupled. 
Regarding magnetic  forces under a platter or cartridge  it is irrelevant if the TT is designed for it. Shielding a magnetic force is easy although  not always inexpensive. 

Mike then we agree, knock yourself out. I'm sure it is a lot of fun for you. I would rather spend my limited money on stuff that would make a substantial difference like ear plugs for my wife:)
Anvil, stylus friction is going to have the same effect regardless of bearing friction. A system with more power and inertia might not be effected as much. How the motor is coupled makes no difference. Pulsating magnetic forces under a very sensitive magnetic device is just asking for it. This is the reason most of us think direct drive tables sound terrible. I am certainly one of those although I am always open to new designs like the Monaco. There is no reason to even go there. Any improvement in speed accuracy over a good belt drive table is inaudible. It is easier to make a silent bearing if you do not have a motor wrapped around it and you do not have to worry at all about stray magnetic fields as the power of a magnetic field drops with the square of the distance. 
Guyw3, that would certainly work but is more difficult to set up. Most of us just throw a strobe disc on the record while playing and set the speed while the record is playing. 

Dude, quit while your behind :)