Subwoofer for music, how low?

DEBRA isn’t very expensive. James R. No idea on the shipping. I thought some of the parts were from Parts Express, like the amps. They have pretty good shipping rates too. Flat packs, there are a few sources, some better than others. PE is one.

How much material does it take to make 4 1cf boxes? Under a 4 x 8 sheet of 3/4" Hardwood, Plywood, HDF or MDF. Chip board will work fine for subs.. They don’t have to be pretty.

You can add a Mohawk to your subs.. :-)

Let me hunt up some parts I would and ARE using. 

Regards

4 10" 44-10s. This is my personal favorite sub of all time. This will hit what EVER  you want, no problem.

I use Behringer NU12000s and a DCX2696. The DCX has 6 outlets for 6 different setting or you can use a 4 module model like a NU4-6000. So we are clear in 2cf boxes and with a 12" passive radiator they will hit below 20hz direct coupled. Excellent cone control. Super bang for the buck.. 4 will pressure a room VERY easy. Thats 4 active 10" and 4 passive 12". ALL are considered medium to high high excursion drivers, for LOW distortion. I've used them for a long time. 5 years ago they would come up on sale for 99.00. NOW 199.00. Worth every penny. I've never had a failure with that driver..

I use it in my car too.. Impressive, IB in the car though, NO port ot passive.. 

One of the best speakers for columns I've ever used too. 16hz 1000 watts columns under 5% distortion. That's VERY low..

Remember DECOUPLE and build to decouple, Air, springs, pods, BUT decouple.. NO spikes for music, EVER. Spikes are for SNOW.. LOL If you do put any driver pointing down, you have to enclose the slot. You have to add a butt plate. Otherwise it has to be on the side or top (not the best but not bad with a single driver).

Regards

Thanks what passive driver are you using. would also like to know more details like cabinet size and driver placement

No, there is no "music" at 20Hz- well not much anyway. However, there definitely is musical content that low, and it makes a huge difference. Mostly it is the lowest ambient resonance of the recording venue. This is the super low frequency throb you feel at a concert hall, but it is there on a lot of other recordings as well.

Very hard if not impossible to accurately reproduce with only one or two subs due to room modes and cancellation, it is easy to do with four in a distributed bass array. The result is bass like you never heard before. Not just bass you notice with music, either. Way better than that. When this ultra-low frequency ambience is accurately recreated it makes the system and room disappear leaving you with a greatly improved sense of envelopment. The music is not spread across the room in front of you any more. You are now in the recording venue.

The beauty of this method is it no longer depends on finding a super powerful sub that goes down low. In fact you can use any four subs, they do not need to match, can be literally anything. Perfectly suited to your situation as you can simply buy whatever 4 subs are readily available in your area. Rely on the fact that using four will outweigh any considerations of what they are.

I have by the way done all the different permutations to know the above is all true. Tried a whole bunch of subs, one at a time. Killed myself moving them around. Tried in vain to get good bass. Cannot be done. Forget about it. When you hear people say they got great bass from one or two, ask if they heard four or five. So how do they know?

I have one Talon Roc powered sub, two sealed 10" and two ported 10" passives run with the same Dayton SA1000 amp Duke uses in his Swarm. Duke helped me building mine. I am returning the favor passing along what I learned. This gives me 5 subs, and I have tried them all kinds of different ways. Killed myself so you don't have to. Just get four, any four, you will see.

This is A passive. I use one that the mass is on the outside. You don't have to remove the driver to add mass. The washers are on the outside and act as a phase plug also. When I get close the mass needed for the tuning I want, I add Mortite (a  soft nonhardning putty) to finly adjust the (Q)uality.  I remove as little as the size of peppercorn at a time. Just as the BOOM goes away you have tuned your sub to your speakers, your room, your cable (type and length) and your amps. THAT is an important little tuning trick isn't it..

Try to find that with ANY sub manufacture anywhere today. The last company to offer that type of mechanical tuning for a sub went out of business in 2012. VMPS. It was a shame. Brian Cheney new BASS like no other.  That is who I learned from. He had subs just like REL at first... THEN he changed in the 90s and decoupled, HE learned. Most of the other manufactures didn't. Now you know why they NEED DSP for your room.

They (most manufactures) don't know HOW to build a friggin' sub without DSP now It's cheaper and easier for everyone. It's NOT the best way it is A way. Look at most REL products, they don't even have that.. Good Boom Boom though. IF you like boom boom.. Nice paint too..:-)

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I didn't mention servo bass but it is best for everything. Expensive BUT it is an end all, once and for all bass system.

I used every type of bass system there is, including folded horns for a few years..

The electrical, the room, the bass. One, Two, Three. Foundation UP, NOT the other way around..

You want to know more keep asking questions. I'll dig up some pics or take some, better yet..

It's nice to find someone who likes to learn the right way. NOT a way.. I got a few up my sleeve. 

MC is giving good advise, smoothing the bass, more is better. NOW tune every sub to your room with mechanical (Q)uality..

Any issues after that are a very simple PEQ adjustment.. 56hz, 71hz, 81-2hz (close) 8, 9, and 10 foot ceiling modes'

Happy New Year