Subwoofer for music, how low?

T/9x is terrific sub, I have the T/9i Red Gloss, would love to add a second...I use a pair of S/5 SHO in main system...

DEBRA isn’t very expensive. James R. No idea on the shipping. I thought some of the parts were from Parts Express, like the amps. They have pretty good shipping rates too. Flat packs, there are a few sources, some better than others. PE is one.

How much material does it take to make 4 1cf boxes? Under a 4 x 8 sheet of 3/4" Hardwood, Plywood, HDF or MDF. Chip board will work fine for subs.. They don’t have to be pretty.

You can add a Mohawk to your subs.. :-)

Let me hunt up some parts I would and ARE using. 

Regards

4 10" 44-10s. This is my personal favorite sub of all time. This will hit what EVER  you want, no problem.

I use Behringer NU12000s and a DCX2696. The DCX has 6 outlets for 6 different setting or you can use a 4 module model like a NU4-6000. So we are clear in 2cf boxes and with a 12" passive radiator they will hit below 20hz direct coupled. Excellent cone control. Super bang for the buck.. 4 will pressure a room VERY easy. Thats 4 active 10" and 4 passive 12". ALL are considered medium to high high excursion drivers, for LOW distortion. I've used them for a long time. 5 years ago they would come up on sale for 99.00. NOW 199.00. Worth every penny. I've never had a failure with that driver..

I use it in my car too.. Impressive, IB in the car though, NO port ot passive.. 

One of the best speakers for columns I've ever used too. 16hz 1000 watts columns under 5% distortion. That's VERY low..

Remember DECOUPLE and build to decouple, Air, springs, pods, BUT decouple.. NO spikes for music, EVER. Spikes are for SNOW.. LOL If you do put any driver pointing down, you have to enclose the slot. You have to add a butt plate. Otherwise it has to be on the side or top (not the best but not bad with a single driver).

Regards

Thanks what passive driver are you using. would also like to know more details like cabinet size and driver placement

No, there is no "music" at 20Hz- well not much anyway. However, there definitely is musical content that low, and it makes a huge difference. Mostly it is the lowest ambient resonance of the recording venue. This is the super low frequency throb you feel at a concert hall, but it is there on a lot of other recordings as well.

Very hard if not impossible to accurately reproduce with only one or two subs due to room modes and cancellation, it is easy to do with four in a distributed bass array. The result is bass like you never heard before. Not just bass you notice with music, either. Way better than that. When this ultra-low frequency ambience is accurately recreated it makes the system and room disappear leaving you with a greatly improved sense of envelopment. The music is not spread across the room in front of you any more. You are now in the recording venue.

The beauty of this method is it no longer depends on finding a super powerful sub that goes down low. In fact you can use any four subs, they do not need to match, can be literally anything. Perfectly suited to your situation as you can simply buy whatever 4 subs are readily available in your area. Rely on the fact that using four will outweigh any considerations of what they are.

I have by the way done all the different permutations to know the above is all true. Tried a whole bunch of subs, one at a time. Killed myself moving them around. Tried in vain to get good bass. Cannot be done. Forget about it. When you hear people say they got great bass from one or two, ask if they heard four or five. So how do they know?

I have one Talon Roc powered sub, two sealed 10" and two ported 10" passives run with the same Dayton SA1000 amp Duke uses in his Swarm. Duke helped me building mine. I am returning the favor passing along what I learned. This gives me 5 subs, and I have tried them all kinds of different ways. Killed myself so you don't have to. Just get four, any four, you will see.