Subwoofers.... one 10" or two 8"?


I'm looking to fill out the bottom of my simple 2 channel system  (Musical Fidelity X-Ray CDP through Peachtree Audio Grand Integrated amp to a pair of Mirage OMD-15 full range speakers).  I occasionally will play the TV audio through the system for movies, but not interested in an HT setup. Music is the prime focus. The room is "medium" size.  I know that will not give the deep bass feel of a 12", but the difference should not be too great, and a 12" may be overkill for that room.  I've also considered getting two 8" subs to keep the sound balanced between the left and right channels. I think the  8" may be enough bottom for my room and tastes. I'm on a budget so getting a pair of anything bigger than 8" may not be in the cards.

Any opinions or suggestions as to whether I'd be better off with one 10" or two 8" subs?

















larstusor
oleschool -
Reasons for going with the SVS SB1000s are:
1) sealed design
2) 12 inch driver
3) rated into mid 20 Hz
4) small size
5) weight - I can move them around without needing a chiropractor
6) continuously adjustable gain & cross over as well as phase
7) line level and speaker level inputs
8) 45 day money back in home trial (free return shipping during that time)
9) 1 year money back on trade up
10) 5 year warranty
11) generally favorable reviews...both consumer and professional
12) great price (got a pair of SB1000s for <$1000 with free shipping)

Still messing around with settings but they look like keepers. Only thing I’m not crazy about is the black ash finish. Wish they offered a mahogany or cherry...even if it were veneer.




If your crafty applying veneer is simple really buy a sheet table saw router and glue .. All those seem like strong reason . I hsve s sunfire hsu 12 sealed and small i am gonna geab another used at some point gloss blk .. They are a little more like 750-1000 each .. Congrats . I know everyone has there opinions but i spiked mine starsound audiopoints 3 made a huge difference.. 
@leotis -
I found that same procedure you recommend (setting sub's phase based on minimizing bass output at the crossover frequency while while main speakers are in reverse phase to sub).  It was actually in Sound & Vision and submitted by Robert Harley as I recall.  I didn't do the out-of-phase-on-the-mains part but did try maximizing dbs at the crossover frequency using a tone generator.  I will repeat the procedure to confirm but it seemed like a large change to my almost 0 degree initial phase setting was needed....going to 140 degrees! Both channels ended up at the same phase value and I was not trying to read the actual setting at that point...just going by ear with what gave the loudest sound.  Anyway, afterwards,  I was not very satisfied with overall impact on music.  It seemed like soundstage had collapsed and (lower midrange?) was weakened.  At this point, I'm inclined to agree with Erik that this method may have unintended consequences.  Based on what else I'd read about phase differing across a range of frequencies this is, perhaps, not surprising.  I'll probably repeat the experiment BUT I suspect setting phase is going to be trial and error based on the overall effect on the music and not just max db at the crossover frequency.
If you sum the signals from the sub and main you get +3 dB.(less after room interactions) If you cancel the signals with reverse polarity you get -40 dB. Much easier to hear! Method works best when the sub is close to the speakers. If sub farther away then differential distance from sub and main to different points in the room varies more, and result becomes more hit or miss. Then trial and error may be the best you can do. Maybe you are referring to Harley in Absolute Sound. http://www.theabsolutesound.com/articles/subwoofer-basics/?page=3