Technics SP10 MK3 Restoration


Just got my SP10 MK3 base (motor unit & controller) back from JP at FidelisAnalog.com
JP is one of the most knowledgeable on the SP10 MK3 and is the one who designed and manufactures the MN6042 Speed Control chip that keeps these and other Technics turntable models still operating.

My SP10 MK3 came with the stock Technics SH-10B5 faux obsidian base.
It has very low hours of use , no signs of wear at all on the bearing and not a single blemish, other than some specs of dust and a couple spots on the copper part of the platter that need cleaning.
but I would like to have a 2 arm, constrained layer plinth built and have the motor unit mounted 'naked'. I am presently searching somewhat 'affordable' plinth builders and suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

The work that JP did to both the motor unit and the controller:

1.       Pre-refurbishment measurement to baseline the performance of the unit and to see if there are any underlying issues.
2. Cleaning of all PCBs to remove the factory conformal coating. At~40 years this coating tends to become hygroscopic which can cause stability issues.
3. Physical inspection of all solder joints under an inspection microscope. Many of the joints will exhibit annular deformities which can lead to joint fractures down the road. These must be cleared of the factory solder and re-soldered. There will also be poor joints that need the same treatment. You can’t just reflow as the solder alloys aren’t the same which can also cause joint failure down the road.
4. Electrolytic cap replacement and rectifier diode replacement.
5. Disassembly and cleaning of the motor. Bearing inspection and service work. Proper Anderol 465 oil is used for reassembly. Motor is then checked for any areas of bearing drag.
6. The brake solenoids typically needs cleaned, and band tension is adjusted.
7. Stop/start and speed selection switches in the motor chassis are measured for contact resistance. Too high of resistance is indicative of a switch failure in the future. In the control unit I typically replace all the tactile switches, and the start/stop switch if needed.
8. Relocation of the brake regulator transistor to the heatsink to prevent overheating of the board (factory design flaw).
9. MN6042 replacement installation.
10. PSU ripple check at all critical stages (10).
11.   Course calibration is performed and post-refurb baseline measurements for FG spectrum, motor drive phases, etc. are taken.

12.   After 48-hour run-in final calibrations and verification measurements are performed.

The basic service returns the unit to factory or better specifications (assuming no permanent bearing damage has occurred).   This service is quite exhaustive and very different from the typical work I see of just swapping some caps out, checking some voltages, and adjusting phase tracking.

The advanced service adds on top of the basic service:

1.       Replace all polyester capacitors.
2. Replace drive circuit metal oxide resistors.
3. Replace all voltage regulator ICs and update circuits.
4. Replacement of certain diodes.

Rick


128x128Ag insider logo xs@2xrich121

Showing 7 responses by pindac

The Material Panzerholz is widely discussed.
There is a reasonable amount of Data and descriptions available to be reviewed to show the properties of the material.

The use of it as a Plinth Material is well documented.
The impression it can make as a Plinth Material is subjective and not all reports are going to show it as a preferred choice.

I lean toward Densified Wood as a Plinth Material and have been demonstrated Plinths produced from it used on a few TT's.
I have heard it as a Material in both Lamination configurations.

P'holz is supplied by Delignit, it is available in a few versions of manufacturing processes, where the Laminations are built up from different quantities of tiers per 25mm.
Delignit also offer other Densified Wood Product that have additional tiers per 25mm than P'holz is offered with.
A Densified Wood for a manufacturer is usually to be produced at close to 1400Kg per Cubic Metre. 
   
I use a Partially Densified Wood on a Direct Drive TT and have a Densified Wood Material available to produce a New Plinth for when the next Trials are due to commence. 

I feel confident your interest in Densified Woods will be quite valuable.     
I think the Individual in the Link knows a thing or three about P'holz.
Worth a read on what is referred to as Tank Wood (which their used term for P'holz)

Mono & Stereo © 2021: Interview with Rainer Weber of Kaiser Acoustics
The common reference to the stripped back Motor where the Plinth takes on the role of the the Chassis is a Kaneta Design.
I believe there are variants of this method in use to date, and the reports from users I have discussed this method with are made giving a very positive appraisal.
Myself and a friend are going down this road as an experiment, along with trialling New Platter Designs as well.

This is where Polybentonite Resin Plinths come into their own.
When a Densified Wood is not an option, the resin material has Performance Measurements that are almost on parity with a Densified Wood and will also be a version of a massy plinth, such as a Natural Stone. 
I am at present instrumental in encouraging a Dr Kaneda based
SP10 MkII Design to be produced using a Densified Wood to take on the role of the OEM Chassis.

There are other options in the side lines to trial with the design once it is up and running 
Thank You for the Tip about Warren.
I have conversed with him privately and he has been quite supportive in offering his help.


@dover 
  I subscribe to the loop rigidity principle - platter, bearing & arm mount must be absolutely rigidly locked together in position  to measure the groove accurately. Arm pods in my view are only as good as what they sit on, and often will compromise loop rigidity.

This is where my mentors in Turntable Design have guided me to.
I stick with this Design Intent and see no reason to seek out an alternative method.
Plinth Materials that have very stable properties in an environment are key to this.
A plinth must have two properties in my view above any other:
1, It should not deform from its flatness across the different seasons and moisture levels being met in the air.   
2, It should not expand in any dimension due to different moisture levels being met across the different seasons.

If the Design for the Plinth is to have a materials which offers a Specific  Intrinsic Damping Factor Measurement and offer the above properties then Densified Wood is looking likely to be the material to offer these properties.

As for Stand Alone Tonearm Pods, much of my listening is carried out on other systems and one uses a Pod.  I don't  detect that any enjoyment of the music is lost, and it might need a very detailed analysis between the differing Tonearm Mounting Methods to produce an assessment of the Pro's / Con's where listening and perceived sound quality is the basis of the investigation.   
I am familiar with Panzerholz used as a Single Board in 20mm and
32mm and I can safely say there is not any knowledge known to myself of it having any detrimental impaction on its properties in when solely chosen as the material for a Plinth.

As a material used for plinths it is most likely to have reports on its usage that have close to a 12 Years History and I am not as yet with any recollection of seeing an information being offered informing of the material being unstable and not suitable for Plinth usage.

I have discussed Panzerholz with a variety of Plinth Builders via Forums, Private Contact and Face to Face, I know some who have rejected it as a material for the Sonic Quality not being to their liking, but never for the deterioration of the material.

During a recent search for a Product from the same producer, I learnt that Panzerholz is also used as the Cabinet Material on a High End Speaker Product.