The new Synergistic Research BLUE fuses ....


New SR BLUE fuse thread ...

I’ve replaced all 5 of the SR BLACK fuses in my system with the new SR BLUE fuses. Cold, out of the box, the BLUE fuses stomped the fully broken-in SR BLACKS in a big way. As good as the SR BLACK fuses were/are, especially in comparison with the SR RED fuses, SR has found another break-through in fuses.

1. Musicality ... The system is totally seamless at this point. Its as if there is no system in the room, only a wall to wall, front to back and floor to ceiling music presentation with true to life tonality from the various instruments.

2. Extension ... I’ve seemed to gain about an octave in low bass response. This has the effect of putting more meat on the bones of the instruments. Highs are very extended, breathing new life into my magic percussion recordings. Vibes, chimes, bells, and triangles positioned in the rear of the orchestra all have improved. I’ve experienced no roll-off of the highs what so ever with the new BLUE fuses. Just a more relaxed natural presentation.

3. Dynamics ... This is a huge improvement over the BLACK fuses. Piano and vibes fans ... this is fantastic.

I have a Japanese audiophile CD of Flamenco music ... the foot stomps on the stage, the hand clapping and the castanets are present like never before. Want to hear natural sounding castanets? Get the BLUE fuses.

4. Mid range ... Ha! Put on your favorite Ben Webster album ... and a pair of adult diapers. Play Chris Connor singing "All About Ronnie," its to die for.

Quick .... someone here HAS to buy this double album. Its a bargain at this price. Audiophile sound, excellent performance by the one and only Chris Connor. Yes, its mono ... but so what? Its so good you won’t miss the stereo effects. If you’re the lucky person who scores this album, please post your results here.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ULTRASONIC-CLEAN-The-Finest-Of-CHRIS-CONNOR-Bethlehem-Jazz-1975-NM-UNPLAYED-...

Overall impressions:

Where the RED fuses took about 20 hours to sound their best, and the BLACK fuses took upwards of 200 hours of total break-in, the BLUE fuses sounded really good right out of the box ... and that’s without doing anything about proper directional positioning. Not that the BLUE fuses don’t need breaking in, they do. The improvement continues through week three. Its a gradual break-in thing where each listening session is better than the last.

Everything I described above continues to break new ground in my system as the fuses continue breaking in. Quite honestly, I find it difficult to tear myself away from the system in order to get things done. Its truly been transformed into a magical music machine. With the expenditure of $150.00 and a 30 day return policy there’s really nothing to lose. In my system, its like upgrading to a better pre amp, amp, CD player or phono stage. Highly recommended.

Kudos to Ted Denney and the entire staff at SR. Amazing stuff, guys. :-)

Frank

PS: If you try the SR BLUE fuses, please post your results here. Seems the naysayers, the Debbie Downers and Negative Nellie’s have hijacked the original RED fuse thread. A pox on their houses and their Pioneer receivers.

Frank



128x128oregonpapa
@almarg , yes, it was a rep from The Cable Co. who told me he researched as best he could how and where fuses are made and told me there are basically three types or grades of fuses and the applications used for each. 

He also went on to say that the lowest grade of fuses can vary in performance despite the specs and the next two levels adhere better to the specs. The mid level fuses, which is what the boutique audio fuses are based on, have been around a long time for use in other, more critical applications. 

One would think that since this has been known for awhile, the more knowledgeable folk around here who are more versed in this would have said something sooner. Something like, "all those fuses are are rebranded, higher quality fuses that have been used in ...." and the conversation wouldn't have been so heated.

In my simple googling of high rupturing fuses and their uses, there are plenty of sites explaining them by highly degreed engineers so there is no mystery to these boutique fuses other than why they charge so much but that is another matter. 

Hearsay, yes. But I'm of a mind after researching what I could that it all makes sense without any need to strain credulity. That, and what my ears tell me. As for my last paragraph, there was a bit of snark in it. Not all the equipment should be considered faulty or poorly designed but who's to say that some of it isn't? We only have their word to go on, like mine and others who do hear a difference. The statement I made was to make people think before decrying aftermarket fuses.

All the best,
Nonoise
Al, thanks again for another useful explanation for the lay person. Some  of us who are enjoying these fuses are stuck within the qualitative realm of evaluation.  Whether or not they protect as well as a stock fuse, they sure do something good for my sensory perception of the music.  Would you ever try one?    

@jkuc - per your statements below:

Furutech fuses are rebranded Padis. The only difference Furutech’s are cryo treated (and more expensive :) ). Padis rolled off in highs doesn’t mean it’s not bright.
Furutech: bright, dynamic, detailed, lean. Padis must share "the housesound" . I haven’t tried Padis though.

Furutech fuses are NOT rebranded PADIS fuses. They are not the same thing. It is true that PADIS is the company that manufacturers the Furutech fuses. However, the generic PADIS fuses available on ebay for $25 plus shipping from Germany are NOT the same thing as Furutech fuses. Please see my testing results here:

https://forum.audiogon.com/discussions/padis-vs-furutech-fuses

It could be that one difference are that Furutech fuses are cryo treated. However, I suspect that the Furutech fuses also have a thicker rhodium plating on them. There were definitely some corners cut with the generic PADIS fuses because they do not sound the same at all. The PADIS will share a "house sound" with the Furutech, but the Furutech are significantly better. The audible difference is obvious. The extra $25 you spend on the Furutech is worth it, unless you are on a very tight budget or if you just cannot get yourself to spend that much.

Please do not make statement based on your assumptions unless you have actually tested and listened to these items.

As far as brightness, I have listened to Furutech, PADIS, Hi-Fi Tuning and Synergistic SR20 side by side, swithing out fuses one at a time.  The Furutech fuses are definitely resolving, but I would not call them bright.  The SR20 and Hi-Fi tuning are definitely bright because they push the upper mids and highs.  the PADIS is warm sounding in comparison to these, but very even and natural overall.

@auxinput - I confirmed, I hadn't tested Padis. I only heard Padis in my friend's system and it was sounding bright. That's why I didn't test it. There are may testimonials on internet saying Padis is bright. Many more than opinions Padis is not bright. From your post ".. Both the PADIS and Furutech share the same essential sonic signature..."   and also  "At the 180-200 hour mark, the PADIS did get very bright/hard-edged".   Furutech is Cryo treated and sounding better, not to everyone though. This is system dependent.

Apparently, you don't understand what it means bright sounding system. System can be very resolving, with lots of highs but still can be dark sounding.
I’m not saying Padis is bad. It's a good fuse but just bright sounding (I heard it for the record) which is not to my liking. I'm sure it can find it's place in some darker sounding systems.



My system is now all Blue. I changed Black for Blue in my CD transport early this week, and just did the same with my DAC. So far, I’m really happy with the results. For me, the priority is how well does my system extract low level musical information from the medium (CD in my case) and pass it on through to my ears. The Blue fuses are a clearly audible improvement over the Blacks in this area.