To open a thor TA 1000 MK II you first...

My suggestion is to call Ben Jacoby at High End Audio Repair and see what he says. He just worked on my Thor TA 1000 MK II and he really knows these preamps. Highly Recommended.

So, is Ben listed in the yellow pages?

His company is called High End Audio Repair and he is in Brooklyn, NY. He was the Service Manager at Stereo Exchange in New York for many years. I found him through google.

Thanks much.

Below is both an update and resolution for other’s, to the issue I have encountered twice now in normal use of my Thor TA 1000 MK II line stage preamp. It’s remote sensor (located beneath the base of the preamp) wasn’t well enough engineered so it can be pushed up into the body of the unit now and then. Negating the remote functionality of the unit almost entirely. Some forethought should be given to moving it about by resting it onto a smooth level surface in the interim. Packing too is a consideration, and forming a pocket into the dense foam which supports the carriage will likely prevent this occurrence.

I was contacted by a member who supplied the following info for opening the preamp.

I asked:
That thing in the hole in the center (formerly) covered up by a paper sticky tag is really an Allen set screw/bolt?

Reply:
“It is an allen or should I say was before they purposely mangled it. If you can't get a bite on what's left with a hex key you can either use an "easy out" or just drill it out very carefully as my friend did.”

I said:
Hmmm…. What possesses someone to purposely mangle a main point of entry? Locks only keep honest people honest anyhow.

I find no other screws or fasteners under the body of the unit... my friend said, even the 3 BDR cone footers don't have exposed screw heads and we couldn't figure out if they were glued on or what.

So the feet just turn out counter clockwise? as well as does the
uh, large ‘drilled out allen’ in the direct center of the preamp underneath in the center of the 3 cone footers?

Reply:
Yes all counter clockwise. Mine removes the threaded stud and feet
altogether. On my friend's unit, the feet come off first then their studs need to be removed. We've taken these apart and though they are electrically the same there are a few layout and component differences.

I asked:
Removal of the tubes is needed too accomplish this task?

Reply:
It’s probably a good idea though not absolutely necessary.

I said:
I'm figuring not much play or allowance or distance/space is gonna
be gained here as all the ins & outs, and controls are still wired
up, but there ought to be a couple inches or so within which to maneuver about, right?

Reply:
The bottom plate is fastened to standoffs inside and I'm thinking the only thing wired to it will be the remote sensor. I would think there is a clear connection to disconnect the remote sensor from its board somewhere there. If not I'm pretty certain there is enough extra wire to access it comfortably.

I said:
Absolutely my most sincere thanks for any and all info here... I'm
scared of trying to fish out the remote sensor, something may be pulled off or broken off in the doing.

Reply:
It took me a long time to decide to take it apart. Paul did a pretty good job keeping it mysterious. I thought they had a special press set up to dis-integrate it.

… I hope this helps out anyone else who has one of these remarkable preamps in overcoming perhaps it’s sole design shortcoming.

If you’ve found another way to access your Thor amp, or preamp, or found out some other item that bares passing along, here might be a good place to do it.