@smolder - If you get the RIGHT tube amp (and there are many) you will be happy - you can try different tubes - tube rolling - to tailor the sound
- Manley make some nice amps, but there are many others
- My foray into tubes was a disaster, but I relied on the retailer - not good,
- tubes can be amazing, but they do get quite hot
- Ask for opinions on this forum for brands
Solid State - again, choose wisely - I chose a NAIM amp once and while I liked the sound very much, having to replace all the caps after 10 years I thought was unreasonable
- I now own a Bryston, which comes with a 20 year warranty (i.e. from the date of manufacture) and it has a similar tone to the NAIM, which I like a lot, but with more details, clarity and punch
- There are several solid state designs now available, e.g. high current and symmetrically balanced - each have their quirks
- Some high current solid state amps do not like speaker cables that have a high capacitance, which can result in component failure - tubes do not suffer from this problem
- again, there are many awesome solid state amps out there, so ask for opinions on this forum for brands
Cables are important, perhaps more so with solid state amps. - power cables can make a difference, but as you move up in amp quality, you have to also use higher quality cables
- Speaker cables can make or break the sound of any amp and can impact dynamics, details, clarity and imaging, so choose them wisely and you’ll save a bundle
- Since you’ve built amps you might want to take a look at this link for DIY cables - My Audio Alchemy (image99.net) - BTW, if you have any questions just ask
If possible get out to stores and listen for yourself - I trust my ears much more than magazine reviews. And don’t be afraid to ask them to connect different amps and speakers. - I have no shame in requesting that a $600 bluesound streamer be connected to an $80,000 system. It sounded very nice :-)
Good luck with your quest - there is no right or wrong - just as long as you are happy :-) Regards - Steve |
Thank you, thank you! Very helpful… I knew this would be a common topic, and having just found Audiogond… I’ll be reading other discussions. A bit more detail…
I just purchased a set of used Martin Logan reQuests. They replace Snell E5 Mk2’s.
In the last year I replaced an Adcom 200wpc with a McIntosh Mc 2100. I’m very close to buying a second and bi-amping these speakers.
I currently have an NAD solid state preamp. We mostly stream live music… soundboards via iTunes and wifi / bluetooth.
I’ve got well over 100 old stock 12AX7, Y7, U7, etc… most all brands… so a lot to choose from.
like most people, I’m looking to assemble a nice system that I can enjoy… I don’t intend to be in a constant state of upgrading. While I’m far from rich… I do have a bit to spend as I look down the barrel of retirement in the next five years.
I’m thinking solid state amplification, and in the next year or so upgrading to a full tube preamp. These are large purchases to me… and I am looking to do as much research via Internet opinion before I make the truck to a store ( I’m 40 or so miles in the mountains east of Denver). Thanks again… I’m sure I’ll have more questions. |
Always funny how people on a budget make decisions guaranteed to get the least out of scarce funds. I don't know how it works with guitar amps, but with audio every wire and connection matters. In general the more complicated you make something the harder you have to work to overcome your complications. Like even going separate vs integrated adds a power cord and interconnect. All this stuff sounds better on springs so add a set of those. Fuse, ditto. You just upped your cost profile hugely merely by going separates instead of integrated.
You want to bi-amp? Now in addition to the extra amps you need even more power cords, interconnects, springs and speaker cables. Plus oh yeah now you need a crossover. With power cord, interconnect, etc etc etc. Multiply times three or four.
You really want to have a great system to enjoy for years and years? Don't try and reinvent the wheel. There's good reasons hardly anyone does what you are talking about doing.
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I hear you and appreciate your point of view. So far, at every juncture I’ve heard a significant difference.
The speakers have internal crossovers, with separate inputs for bi-amping. Martin Logan also recommend 100-200 watts… with a second amp I’ll be at 200 wpc as the top spec. And, the oversize speaker cables I have are set up already, I just haven’t used both sides. I’m looking to optimize not complicate things. |
Unfortunately you have already complicated things by choosing speakers that severely limit amplifier choices. There are a great many excellent sounding speakers that are so easy to drive you can do fine with as little as 20 watts. Mine have no problem with 106dB at the sweet spot with my 20W amp pumping out bass dynamics and detail you simply must hear to believe.
A little knowledge goes a long way. The range of components that are out there is incredible. The combinations are near infinite. If only we had infinite funds and time we could afford to go at it like you are. Being short on both I restrict my choices to things I know will work well without foreclosing on other good options. Like your speakers have foreclosed on the option of running a superb 20W tube amp that you could buy for far less than what you will spend on preamp, amps, etc trying to bi-amp ML. Better sound for less. Or a science project. Your system, your call.
There is an excellent book, The Complete Guide to High End Audio by Robert Harley. There's some guys here, not just me, extremely adept at wringing the most from their audio dollar. There's also guys with a knack for spending, complicating, running in circles. Happy to tell you what you want to hear, not so good at what you need to know. Time well spent figuring out which is which and who is who.
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